Why American Brands Leaving NYFW Gives Way to A New Wave of Opportunity
BY BRENNA O’DONNELL
As the list of American houses that have opted to leave New York Fashion Week and show elsewhere grows, as does the negative coverage of these moves along with the fear that NYFW is being stripped of some of it’s big-name brands and their pull. While some may see it as an exodus of American brands, The Impression sees ideal opportunity for a new wave of creativity to sweep over the city. NYC has always been a great equalizer, a home of the brave where newbies have the opportunity to compete above their weight class without the shadow of bureaucracy of the old guard which prevents newbies across the pound from breaking through earlier. And we’re excited to see what comes shining through with this season’s new spotlight.
During NYFW, The Impression typically covers 19.5 shows per day over the course of what until recently was a 10 day event, which has now been truncated to 7 days. We applaud the efforts to tighten the schedule by the CFDA and The Fashion Calendar. This will relieve some of the noise and stress of fashion week to devote more time, attention, and analysis to the brands that are present.
Relative newbies Monse, Sies Marjan, Brandon Maxwell, and Helmut Lang (under new designer Shayne Oliver), now have the opportunity to grab that spotlight to become the next wave American establishment. They will join established players such as Tom Ford, Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, and Marc Jacobs to round off a full week. Is there room for more globally impactful fashion houses to show? Yes, but voids often find themselves filled before you know it and fashion has not lacked for voids.Rather than morn the loss of houses that have moved on to wider pastures, we fully understand that for many artisanal and designer businesses that wider pastures are necessary to their commercial success. Specifically, niche designer businesses that are laser focused on a specific fashion audience. We congratulate houses like Rodarte, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Thom Browne for making the bold move to expand their reach and strengthen their brand awareness outside of the United States. At the end of the day, this is not American brands abandoning their roots, but rather going off to appeal to an international customer base and therefore bring even more attention and inquiry to the American fashion scene.
And as the calendar states, “Subject to Change,” as fashion and its calendar should be.