The Discreet Style of the Royalty From Michelle Obama to Princess Charlene of Monaco, Albert Kriemler dresses the discerning woman with impeccable taste
For the first time ever, the Paris Museum of Modern Art opened its galleries to a fashion show. As Albert Kriemler generously took the time to relate to us in an exclusive interview before the show, he was so excited to be able to secure the space because his collection this season was inspired by modernist architect Robert Mallet-Stevens and the UAM, or l’Union des Artistes Modernes. This group of modernists made Paris the capital of the avant-garde and included the founders of Simultanism Sonia and Robert Delaunay, sculptors Jan and Jöel Martel, master of utilitarian design Jean Prouvé, and the creator of the cubist garden, Gabriel Guévrékian. Their spirit of close collaboration speaks to his own way of working and deep appreciation for the team that brings the collection to life. Kriemler insists,
It’s not about ‘me,’ but about ‘we.’ Our industry is too much about ‘me.’
— Albert Kriemler
He designs the prints and embroideries himself, but works closely with the printmaker and St. Gallen embroiderer to achieve the Akris quality, and has collaborated with the same five tailors for more than 25 years for the same reason. Everything is produced in their own ateliers. He lovingly explains the especially developed materials and unique techniques involved, like the St. Gallen embroidery that is done on a tulle, then the tulle gets washed away, leaving only the embroidery; printing colors and then black on white and gold silk velvet, which can only be done by one mill in the world, which is based in Como; the one supplier in Spain who treats the leather and delivers to his specification on thickness, opaqueness, and shine. The cashmeres are a lux to live in, the leathers like butter; all the thought and experimentation that goes into the fabric and fabrication ensure that the pieces lay right and move gracefully. All this exquisiteness is lost online, which goes to reaffirm that fashion is like art, it has to be experienced in real life.
With works by Robert Delaunay, Fernand Léger, Juan Gris and others as the backdrop, Kriemler was inspired to create his own interpretation of the Martel Cubist Tree out of his signature trapezoid after receiving permission from Jan Martel’s daughter to do so. The looks that he sent down the runway fit right into the sophisticated setting, with fluid silhouettes, smartly tailored jackets, wide-legged trousers and a chic version of the sailor’s cap to give it some attitude. He introduced a new shape in the box skirt, an architectural volume that started as a proportion of a room of Mallet-Stevens. That feels right at home in a museum, art fair, or gallery opening. Asked to describe his client, he said, “I think I dress a woman of purpose, a woman who looks for great clothes, for sustainable clothes, clothes she can wear more than one season, clothes that travel well, and clothes that last, that have a high level of quality.”