The Spirit of Post-Deconstruction Between the inside and outside lays an intimate, liminal layer
It was quite an unusual set for a fashion show. It was made to resemble a construction site, with aluminum paneling as a backdrop, sheetrock lining the runway, support columns wrapped in insulation and interspersed with industrial lighting rods down the middle, and a soundtrack punctuated by typical construction site sounds. As owner and designer Hidenori Kumakiri explained backstage after the show through an interpreter, this collection was built on the spirit of post-deconstruction, or the idea that garments can be deconstructed and worn different ways, but can also be put back. He thinks of the Beautiful People customer as someone who likes to be playful with their clothes, but also wears classics. He proffers this as a responsible way to consume less because you get multiple looks in one; this goes for the shoes and bags as well. We always like the idea of transformative clothing because it’s an organic way to use your clothes and deal with unexpected turns in life – who hasn’t stayed out unexpectedly and needed another outfit, or spontaneously decided to go to something that you weren’t dressed for. Besides, it makes packing for a trip easier.
Kumakiri is known for design sleights-of-hand, for example, producing a piece last season that could transform in 24 different ways. It makes sense since he came from 6 years of pattern-making at Comme des Garçons [Homme], the original house of avant-garde, deconstructed design and incubator for new talent in the same spirit. Returning to his roots, he launched menswear this season. Altogether, the silhouettes were easy and fluid. And while the color palette was muted and neutral, bright accents and accessories made it feel very modern. How awesome are those gloves!
This season was about the layer between the inside and outside – for example, in a building, the insulation – which is unseen but no less important and fundamental. The literal interpretation of this was puffer coats that looked like insulation material, proving form follows function. In a garment, according to Kumakiri, the layer that no one sees is the most intimate and defining one. More philosophically put, he believes that:
What we do not show is truer, and more important, than what we show.