PURPLE GAZE Debunking the usual color codes, Ingo Wilts creates a symphony of color for Boss.
An upshot of attending a major fashion show is not just getting the first glimpse at a new collection but being pleasantly entertained along the way. Such was the case on Sunday morning at the Boss Fall 2020 show in Milan. Guests entered an oval shaped theater completely enveloped in the lavender. In the middle of the stage was seating for a 22-piece orchestra complete with grand piano that was lit by thin rods of lighting that went from low to high as the show began.
The synergy of the music and clothes was undeniable; both classic but both rose with a dramatic emotional feeling.
Backstage chief brand officer Ingo Wilts told The Impression that the color choice was a shock treatment from the German brand. “We wanted something unexpected because typically people think of Boss as dark navy, grey and black so this time we did something to surprise people.” The color brick however – color wheel compliments – opened the show in a power play for rust hue for tailored silhouettes for both men and women. Colors such as orange, red, lilac were combined and color-blocked in combination with house staple neutrals. Fine woolen boxy overcoats with oversized lapels dominated the collection and were peppered with other outerwear must-haves; trenches, bombers and parkas.
The purity of color was evidenced in the solid approach save one print that Wilts said was purposely not immediately recognizable. “My team and I were discussing a print, but I didn’t want a just a print but something with a technique.” The idea of an animal print morphed into a zebra print that was manipulated into a wave-like stitched pattern with deliberate dangling threads on women’s coats and jackets and became a stitched outline on men’s tailoring.
However unwittingly Wilts and his team happened upon another big trend of the season; massive fringe. It fell two below a brick leather shoulder bag, streamed off the body of jacket and overcoats and became an arresting detail shown belted overlaying a simple pleated sleeveless dress. It closed the show between two men’s lilac formal suits that screamed Red Carpet gold. It also didn’t hurt that sitting front row was Cara Delevingne in a custom lilac suit and Orlando Bloom in khaki with matching dog in tow to drive home the star power of Boss’ new hue.