Serene Elegance Embracing minimalist shapes, Christian Wijnants showed a harmonious and elegant collection, which felt warm and uplifting
“I wanted to strip things down and go back to essential shapes. I thought of a woman spending her Sunday afternoon in a museum, casually contemplating various artworks from different historical periods. She could spend time there observing things and simply get inspired by what she saw. The clothes had to reflect this relaxed and easy mood” the designer explained at an exclusive preview backstage. There was, in fact, nothing contrived about the collection, which emphasized loose shapes and ultimate comfort, from wide belted pants and Indian inspired dresses to cozy knits and unstructured coats. Operating as an ongoing dialogue between East and West, the clothes also had a serene quality to them, delivering a comforting and soothing message.
Knitwear is one of the designer’s strengths and he showed beautiful pieces on the runway, from oversize rib turtlenecks with matching skirts to draped tops and baggy pants. He also paired simple knits with fun, flapper-like fringed skirts, a wink to the 1920s garconne look. The emancipated silhouette of that decade was very much an inspiration for Wijnants, who avoided anything clingy or tight-fitting. Even the outerwear gave a similar feeling of ease and free movement: coats were either generously sized or textured, from fuzzy mohair to quilted cotton and their shoulder line was curved to underline softness. Mannish tailoring offered a nice contrast to the looseness of the knitwear and the coats, with suits that were often printed to keep them playful. Jackets were wide and double-breasted, while pants were narrow and cropped, adding a dandyish touch to the tailored looks.
By going back to what he does best and getting rid of any superfluous details, Wijnants demonstrated fashion could be refined, inspiring and wearable, envisaging contemporary women without a hint of aggression.
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