Now in their eighth season, EFTYCHIA, known for their precise tailoring and office-ready attire, loosened the collar a little for S/S22. Undoubtedly, lockdowns have had an effect on the brand’s DNA;
While the identity of the EFTYCHIA woman remains the same, the setting no longer dictates what she chooses to wear.”
– Eftychia Karamolegkou
A feeling most can relate to after 18 months of work-from-home attire.
This relaxing of the rulebook remains a commonplace theme amongst this season’s shows; for EFTYCHIA, this meant a fusion of evening and day, formal and casual, punk and pop. Winning combinations included a delicious, scoop neck silver party-top, paired with a thigh-grazing leather mini, the same silver used across a draped skirt, boasting a delicate under-layer of beige and orange striped cotton. Accessories worked particularly well with this mix-and-match formula in mind. Sculptural cork clogs and stacked loafers by Simona Vanth offered a newfound nonchalance when paired with tailoring, while Vanessa Schindler’s Bio resin jewelry felt odd and eclectic in all the right ways. Perhaps less successful were the designer’s straight-up-and-down dresses, leaving little room for any post-lockdown-pounds and certainly less room for body diversity amongst its casting – a miss for a collection proclaiming ease-of-wear.
Although, despite the brands hit-and-miss “new approach” to dressing, one couldn’t help veer towards what they do best; tailoring.
The designer excelled in offering a newfound fluidity in her naturally sartorial handwriting. Two and three-piece suiting came offered in fresh, languid forms, sometimes draped on the bias or gently curved at the seams – often offered in stripes resembling pimped-up pyjamas built as much for lounging as they were for lunching.
Low-slung “Grandpa” shorts and cocooning pants in tailored wovens or leathers came juxtaposed with decorative fraying and fringe, matched with longline tunics, lurex tank tops and 70’s esque shirting.
However, despite some clear stand-out pieces and winning new combinations, there was a look of indifference amongst the crowd. The show came entitled “Happiness Gone Wrong,” a satirical critique on “forced post-pandemic positivity.” But perhaps what the show needed was a little bit more light amongst the darkness and a heavier helping of that newfound fluidity that made for some of EFTYCHIA’s winning looks for S/S22.