Boudoir Bosses Fendi’s Silvia Venturini Fendi gets an arm up on female dual personalities.
The quilted pale pink pochette containing Fendi’s Fall 2020 show invite emanated a cozy bathrobe vibe that was further cemented by tufted plush seating and pink carpeting which guests discovered entering the Fendi show held at the brand’s headquarters. According to show notes Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi explored the “dual personalities of la donna FENDI, charting the idiosyncrasies of her potent femininity.” It might best be described as a perverse primness. The duality concept was echoed in the Old Hollywood glamour (a fur stole was shown!) meets modern technical innovation mood that also prevailed.
But the ‘bedroom to the boardroom’ journey combined lingerie-inspired touches and colors (hence the pale pink motif) with more traditional masculine tailoring and charcoal grey flannel which manifested surprisingly in a study of the sleeve. Starting about two inches down the arm from the shoulder, a tubular mutton sleeve in a quilted piping texture grounded the collection. The quilting would appear throughout often acting as corset boning. The female form was emphasized through bustiers on tops, dresses, and jackets in everything from slinky silk pink satin to fitted leathers.
The sentiment was further juxtaposed with tough leathers opposing fuzzy angora sweaters.
Furs, unabashed and proud chez Fendi, demonstrated the house’s innovation such as a paisley leopard duster. Why not? A collaboration with Chaos designers Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall showed ‘tech jewelry’ and mini-cases for everything needed in a 21st-century life – phone, air pods for example – worn dangling from rings on a belt offering the ultimate in hands-free stowage. But with new Peek a Boo bags on display, this power lady would carry one just because. Another standout accessory was the ‘backward’ headband worn from the nape of the neck to the ears holding steady the buns and ringlet masses atop the model’s heads. Pumps with garter-strap anklets gave the looks their cheeky grounding.
Almost more striking than the beautiful clothes and set was the unique mix of models cast for the show. A range of today’s runway standards – Kaia Gerber, Gigi, and Bella Hadid et al were mixed with supers of yesterday; Carolyn Murphy, Liya Kebede, Karen Elson, and Mariacarla Boscono to name a few. But age wasn’t the only variable as every skin tone and clothing size (for example, Paloma Elsseser walked the show) also represented truly emphasizing not only female duality but her multi-faceted sides.