Soft and Gentle Sensuality The discreet charm of quiet seduction
Coming from a bespoke furrier family, Colangelo is known for his love of the highest quality materials and innovating with the most advanced technology, techniques and textiles. He explained after the show, “The collection this season works on two levels, one is the craftsmanship that you saw on the stitching on the coats and the jackets, but also in this kind of fabric that is knotted by hand. And the other thing is the laser cuts, so the new technology applied on the fabric to create the solution. In this case, a flat fabric becomes stretch and can, in a way, show skin. The collection is more about soft and gentle sensuality. This was, to me, the idea to discover and explore this season.”
Indeed, the laser-cut fabric moved in an entrancing, sexy way, not in-your-face, but discreet and quietly confident. The king of understatement, Colangelo’s pared-down aesthetic is always timeless and elegant, but it is by no means meek. Witness strategically placed slits in the garments – think hip bone, clavicle, curve above the cleavage, which are not erogenous zones for nothing. Metal drop-shaped buckles with hooks worn over boots or the pant leg draw the gaze to the ankle and offer a new look at the leg, demonstrating that sexy doesn’t have to be super short hemlines. He could own that as a brand code, it’s a smart piece of hardware. The silhouettes are fluid and supple, accentuated at times by long fringe – which, by the way, showed up in a lot of collections this season.
The palette of cerulean, brown, straw yellow, mint green and mahogany is unexpected and modern, a way to pep up classics by something as simple as color. In our times of loud maximalism and everyone trying to out-shoulder everyone else, the soft-spoken Colangelo offers an alternative proposition of grace and luxury in minimalism. “Clothes need to give to the person who buys them emotions and dreams.” Beautifully formulated, just as his clothes.