Review of Gabriele Colangelo Fall 2022 Fashion Show
Surprise And Delight
By Lizzy Bowring
Gabriele Colangelo is a genuinely ‘creative’ designer in every sense of the word; the artisanal approach with which he imbues in his work makes the heart race and the face smile. His work is a joy – from the attention to detail in his atelier with carefully placed flowers, the violinist, the delicate morsels of food on offer, to every aspect of his presentation, nothing is out of place.
Being immersed in Gabriele’s world is never difficult since his work is incredibly prescient.
This Fall 2022 season, his visionary inspiration came from Finland’s northern region, where the show of color from the Auroras displayed dynamic patterns of brilliant lights, appearing as painterly hues flickering over the horizon. The reader needs to understand the nuances behind Gabriel’s repertoire to comprehend the flow of his creative presentation.
Beginning with color, this is the first imagery that greets your eye – in variegated hues displaying the colors of the ‘aurora borealis’ – Green, Indigo, Lilac, White, Burgundy, and Beige – were threaded throughout and highlighted by the delicate, tactile textures he created in the materials. In the softest pile, a knitted green tunic slipped through my fingers as if liquid silk. At the same time, silky fabrics, as he explained: “are colored in the warp to resist the dying process and were subtly nuanced in multicolored hues to emulate the changing colors of the celestial show.” Constantly reimagining, he padded silk georgette in an oversized blouse to layer and over and soften the ‘austerity of a pencil skirt.’
The approach to his tailoring is not just about the craftsmanship in his sartorial cuts but also about the intricate details in construction.
Woven leather straps sinuously hugged the body or were caught to cinch at the waist of a coat with a padded tubular belt. He explained how “each piece is delicately crafted by hand, proudly showcasing that no stitch is out of place”. Gabriele continued, stating: “he initiates every detail by his hand, from the plaiting of silk, or the thread woven around leather straps”; each piece of the whole, a work of art.
Elsewhere, skirts and dresses featured a cape-like drop of fabric that flowed with sensual movement; take the tunic with a deep vee neckline worn over slim trousers or the overcoat, caught at the neckline to discreetly unfurl and cascade into fine pleats – giving the exquisite garment not just fluidity but the duality of purpose.
The tactility in the soft buttery leather was as sexual as the coats and collarless suits into which it was created.
Other sophisticated delicacies came in the ‘glimmer of handmade glass crystal beads‘, crafted to sit over a straight dress with a plunging neckline or diagonal wool suit.
Accessories received just as much loving attention. Nappa boots came hugged at the ankle with the same delicate braiding, and his signature sandals bore a tubular strap with woven silk thread.
Alighieri designed and made mesmerizing jewellery that also emulated the effect of twisted cord.
Gabriele always surprises and delights with every shape and every nuance. Today, there was also an added peaceful ease that suffused every beautiful silhouette, Gabriele has come into his own.
