Jean Paul Gaultier Enlists 5 Guest Designers to Revamp RTW
Five young designers interpret iconic JPG codes for the label’s first ready-to-wear collection in six years
Jean Paul Gaultier makes a triumphant return to ready-to-wear with a new collection created by five guest designers. The label’s new summer collection was collaboratively created by Nicola Lecourt Mansion, Alan Crocetti, Marvin M’Toumo, Ottolinger, and Palomo Spain.
The label’s eponymous founder and designer held his last couture show in January of 2020, but had already stepped away from ready-to-wear for the past six years. After his final couture show, the fashion world wondered what would become of the beloved label. A few months later, they made the exciting announcement that each season would feature a couture collection by a different designer, who would reinterpret classic JPG codes through their personal design approach. The first designer chosen for this unique partnership, Chitose Abe of Sacai, is expected to present her collection at Paris Couture in July.
The freshly revived ready-to-wear side of the house will take a similar approach, but with a group of young designers instead of just one. Titled “Le Marins,” the first collaborative collection makes abundant reference to John Paul Gaultier’s most legendary aesthetic code, the sailor stripes. Each guest designer brought a personal spin to the iconic maritime wardrobe, from Ottolinger’s love for graphics and unique cuts to Alan Crocetti’s playful yet elegant jewelry designs.
Drawing on this motif, the collection’s campaign – which was directed by Charlotte Wales – is a mythical tale of marine adventure and seduction. Bella Hadid stars as a mermaid who lures a pair of sailors into the sea – but rather than meeting their doom in the briny drink, they discover romance. Stylish, tongue-in-cheek, and unabashedly queer, the campaign perfectly embodies the spirit of the collection and reminds us why we love John Paul Gaultier. Like finally spotting land after a long sea voyage, the label’s return to ready-to-wear is a welcome sight indeed.
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