Creativity as the Only Way Forward Marine Serre delivered a powerful and convincing show where her creativity came across as witty and pragmatic, using intricate tailoring and sustainable upcycling.
“My team and I are very much aware of what’s going on around us and my clothes always respond to current events. There’s no point pretending we can keep on living the way we have done, burying our heads in the sand. Right now, we have to be even more creative than ever and use what we find around us. We need to reincorporate what is already there. That’s why half of this collection was made from upcycled garments’’ said Marine Serre backstage at her Fall 2020 show. One of the most complex, exciting and fascinating designers of her generation, Serre has a knack for seizing the Zeitgeist and offering clothes that are seductive and smart at the same time. Last season, her rather dystopian, but striking collection, seemed to predict the Coronavirus outbreak we’ve been experiencing lately, with models wearing protective masks and armor-like clothing. “The message is more hopeful this season, but I still used tailoring as a protective shell” explained the designer backstage. The tailored pieces, shown on men and women alike, were standout looks within the show, crafted in contrasting panels of houndstooth wool, in order to emphasize the waist and a sharp shoulder line. One fitted double breasted coat-dress in the same material, which fully flared at the bottom, was pure drama and incredibly refined.
Throughout the show, it was amusing to see Serre reference traditional motifs of French fashion history to turn them inside out: from Saint Laurent’s signature fuchsia pink -used for relaxed sportswear separates, or a feather trimmed belted dress- to a padded full nylon skirt evoking Dior’s iconic New Look, as well as her signature moire pattern, which she used on cocoon-like outerwear, mini skirts or long shorts.
Serre also reinterpreted the sweater dress -an important piece for fall- by giving it the upcycled treatment. Vintage sweaters with Nordic patterns were smartly deconstructed and assembled together again, creating new shapes and asymmetrical lines. A full length patchwork knit dress, worn by Swedish model Adina Fohlin, felt almost austere and medieval, underlining the grandeur of the silhouette. It was a powerful illustration of how Serre elevates the ordinary to turn it into a statement.
During a chat with press backstage, Serre mentioned Frank Herbert’s Dune as one of her inspirations. “I wanted this feeling of dryness and burned landscapes, a desert-like hot planet.” As apocalyptic as it may sound, Serre’s latest show nevertheless had a happy ending, when a group of older Belgian models, such as Hannelore Knuts, Anne-Catherine Lacroix and Roos Van Bosstraeten walked the runway with their sons and daughters, wearing head-to-toe Serre. Guess it’s never too early to educate future generations on the value of resourceful, very creative and genuinely smart clothes.