The Comfort Factor Design duo Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh are getting into their groove chez Nina Ricci
With three seasons of Nina Ricci firmly under their belt design duo (and life duo) Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh are really settling into their new gig. Having already established a new Nina Ricci code, those wonderful somewhat cartoonish bucket hats, the brand is resonating with a new generation with a wider range of audiences.
The pair were plucked when their own menswear line won top prize at the Festival d’Hyères (as well as being LVMH finalists.) Since they’ve slowly been dissecting the Nina Ricci romantic nature fused with masculine tailored looks. The couple spoke to reporters post show giving insight to their approach. “Silhouette wise, we try to keep experimenting but also make a contrast in the feminine lines and taking the romanticism of the old Nina Ricci and but translating it our own way to create a new romanticism” said Herrebrugh. Botter (whose Dutch family hails from Curacao so add another name to France’s design community opening up) also showed an understanding for today’s women. “It should be comfortable to wear and not constricting so it’s interesting to go this way because it’s how we see women, this doing multiple things.”
With a serene mood throughout, a cozy-comfy vibe opened in the show in a long cream bouclé overcoat layered over a crinkle chiffon fabric and quickly followed in monochromatic silk satin pajama-style pantsuit ensembles and wrap dresses ranging from black to orange to purple for example. A retail sales winner will surely be the cropped fuzzy knits with a snug crossover waist. Mohair, an emerging trend, appeared in muted shades on overcoats. Evening got cozy in a one-shoulder burgundy bubble dress modernized with white tights and slick booties.
When she was more buttoned-up, the Ricci woman favored mix-matched layers and riffs on the small capelet. Whether cropped and midriff length over a blouse or dress or attached into a structured jacket in a soft men’s suiting plaid. This cropped look also appeared on short ballooning cape that referenced past designs for the house; it also appeared as elephant sleeves on a flowing rust dress. The pants also flowed in big wide legs which may pose a harder sell for many body types.
Comfort also takes the shape as billowing parachute dresses worn with cropped vests and embroidered bibs creating an empire waist and indicating some ‘protection’ from the world.