Several seasons ago the pendulum started to swing from Hedi Slimane’s ultrathin stovepipe suits that motivated Karl Lagerfeld to diet to David Byrne ‘One Size Fits All’ oversized suits. Today the pendulum is still in the boxy zone but for Fall 2019 it has started to shift just a tad toward the middle. Although it is hard to tell with all that extra fabric.
Vetements, Raf Simons, Prada, Off-White, Neil Barrett and even Kim Jones at Dior hedged their bets this season on the box as extended shoulder pads made a return to help offset the extra room.
Meanwhile, the legroom remained straight to slightly tapered to balance out the proportion up top presenting the classic ‘Y’ silhouette that had its heyday in the 80s. That trend was a by-product of the gym and action stars like Arnold Schwarzenegger and Sylvester Stallone. Today the gym is a standard MO, and designers have revised the trend not so much as to augment the male physique, but in a punk fashion, to hide it.
Balmain Balmain Balmain Benenato Benenato Berluti Berluti Berluti Thom Browne Thom Browne Celine Celine Cerruti 1881 Cerruti 1881 Christian Dada Christian Dada CMMN Swdn CMMN Swdn CMMN Swdn Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons Deveaux Deveaux Dior Dior Dior Dsquared2 Dunhill Dunhill Dunhill Dunhill Dunhill Dunhill Dunhill Dunhill Frankie Morello Frankie Morello Fendi Fendi Fendi Feng Chen Wang Issey Miyake Jil Sander Jil Sander JunnJ Kenzo Kenzo Kenzo Kenzo Loewe Loewe M1992 M1992 Magliano Magliano Magliano Marni AMI Alexandre Mattiussi AMI Alexandre Mattiussi AMI Alexandre Mattiussi AMI Alexandre Mattiussi Hed Mayner Hed Mayner MSGM Nº21 Nº21 Neil Barrett Oamc Oamc Off-White Off-White Off-White Off-White Off-White Off-White Officine Générale Officine Générale Officine Générale Rick Owens Rick Owens Pal Z ileri Pal Zileri Pal Zileri Paul Smith Paul Smith Paul Smith Paul Smith Paul Smith Paul Smith Paul Smith Paul Smith Prada Prada Raf Simons Raf Simons Raf Simons Sankuanz Sartorial Monk Sartorial Monk Sartorial Monk Sartorial Monk Sartorial Monk Sartorial Monk Sean Suen Sean Suen Sean Suen John Lawrence Sullivan Valentino Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten Versace Versace Vetements Vetements Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Y-Project Y-Project Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Yamamoto Ermenegildo Zegna