All that Jazz Strength, sexiness and swing all on full display at Miuccia Prada
Backstage post-show, Miuccia Prada offered some insight into the Fall 2020 collection that was more than the sum of its parts. “It’s quintessential what is considered femininity – the fringes [skin baring], transparency and embroideries, but this time there is a value in beauty coming from real femininity.” The designer wants to consider that in this time of strong feminine identities, that power doesn’t have to come at the cost of giving up a softer, sensual side.
The set was rebooted from the men’s show in January with some minor facelifts, setting a much different tone. Mrs. Prada said this time it was “a plaza where everybody meets on their daily journey.” Foremost of the feminine hallmarks that Prada displayed was the fringe – think flappers – that came out in almost every form imaginable. Floor-length, spun yarn fringe that hung from the collar; pleated skirts were split and became vented flap skirts baring thighs; hair-like fringe and beaded fringe embroideries running up sleeves and across the back of jackets and coats hinted at sophisticated cowgirl. Everyone in a feminine high heel, save a lone thick boot. Female accoutrements such as lipstick holders and mirrored compacts were mixed with utilitarian fabrics.
In the middle of the set was a foam core statue – reminiscent of the one at the men’s show – based on the mythical character Atlas, who bore the weight of the world on his shoulders. However, Mrs. Prada gave it her own twist. “Now I feel it is women in general who carry humanity on their shoulders, especially in today’s climate. But also, it carries the lightness of life and I call that glamour. It pleases you and lifts up you.” In fact, the designer was quick to emphasize that the whole premise of the show was about “making glamour the day option.” Note to self: the winds of fashion signaling it’s time to ditch the athleisure vibe.
She didn’t secede everything back to the men – most of those fringe-y skirts were anchored with belted wool and at times exaggeratedly puffed men’s jackets in nylon and leather creating the classic hourglass. Sheer dresses revealing bra tops and footed leggings often looked like a man’s NBA jersey, only done up in delicate organza and piping and other nods to classic sweatshirts and T-shirts. The floral motif wallpaper turned into an embroidery on a classic men’s pajamas.
One thing that men and women shared for Fall 2020 was the designer’s fascination with the Viennese succession period – it influenced the set design – where intellect, creativity and craftsmanship came together as a reaction to the Industrial Revolution that forgot the importance of humanity and creativity. “It was giving importance to work and dedication of those craftsman who had a passion for what they created.” A sentiment that is equally feminine and masculine no matter how you slice it.