New York in the 90’s was home to the minimalist/maximalist that many a European designer elevated, so it was only fitting that Miuccia Prada staged her Resort 2019 collection in the city that kicked it all off.
The show was held in the companies NY headquarters, a former piano factory that has been revamped in Prada vision by Herzog and de Meuron. To augment the architecture, the staging set an energetic technical tone with tinted neon red windows that perfectly capitalized on the sun setting to the west across the Hudson.
The collection had a rather playful tone that reflected an artist in full stride, comfortable with rummaging through her archive to rework it with both a grin toward the past and a wink toward the future. She touched upon many of her iconic silhouettes from her launch decade from the high armhole 3/4 dusters, to the tubular low slung belted long skirts, to the hip-slung miniskirts. The models too recalled the 90’s moment of transitioning from curve to waif with tubular form leading the change.
Miuccia Prada has always had known how to balance the artisanal side of pop-like prints and motifs that bridge vulgar and technical and this showing was no different as acidic geometrics were paired with organic waves patterns on leggings.
If anythign the touches of minimalism grounded the collection, giving respite like the white space between art objects in museums. And as she was the first to shine a light on that space in the 90s’ it is only fitting she reminds us of that space again today.