Summer has always been associated with the idea of crisp whites – from tennis court uniforms to a pair of box-fresh sneakers. But this Resort season has dialed it back to its origins and given it a more mellow hue.
Taking its cue from the sustainability movement, there has been a move towards less harmful production processes by fashion brands, and so the trend for unbleached whites has gathered apace. Fabrics such as linen and denim in their natural form are gaining in popularity, championed by the likes of Jacquemus, who’s Fall 2020 collection was mostly devoid of colour, and his most recent spring summer 2020 runway show took inspiration from the colours of the wheat field in which it was staged. Nike’s third collaboration with Virgil Abloh’s Off-White brand, also produced a sold-out sneaker in a parchment colourway, and the recently re-opened exhibition on Mushrooms at Somerset House celebrated our fascination with the shades we find in nature.
The most notable designers from the Resort roster who worked with varying shades of parchment included Dior – who’s collection focussed on the craftspeople native to Italy, with tiered dobby spot dresses, and textured tailoring. As well as Jil Sander who elevated the sense of ease the colour inspires, with generous cuts across skirts, jumpsuits, and handbags. Contemporary brands such as RTA, Petar Petrov, Nanushka, and Lauren Manoogian also created collections that featured parchment worn head-to-toe in monochromatic statements.