Last Exit Alessandro Dell’Acqua took his final bow on the runway for Rochas where he has been artistic director for six years
Being a ‘lame-duck’ anything is never a fun place to be. For creatives whose departure is announced before their last project, it can go one of two ways depending on the circumstance.
If it’s more sweet than bitter, then you might expect to see one’s best work ever so that is all they will remember. Oppositely, they may care to just carry on business as usual but not really have their heart in it.
While not aware of the specifics, it seemed to be more of the latter for Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s last collection for Rochas for Fall 2020 though, collection notes that followed post shows it was sort of a ‘greatest hits’ of the last six years. It certainly isn’t for lack of talent or ability to create great product because he absolutely just did that in Milan for both his men’s and women’s Fall 2020 collections. Who knows, maybe the idea of just being able to concentrate on one’s (sort of) namesake collection, especially for its tenth anniversary, was enough to inject a shot of vitality.
That said the Rochas woman will not be too disappointed come fall. Dell’Acqua has achieved with Rochas an interesting paradigm for two opposites working in complement; embellishment and frills amongst a serene simplicity. To that end, simple silk dresses with long sleeves and high neck (a certain consumer will eat those up!) had an artful scattering of Swarovski crystals up the sleeve.
For those who love the look of fur but not the ethics, Rochas offers a synthetic fringe and glittering option that swung greatly as the models walked the runway. It was a material made for Insta-Boomeranging! Kitschy gold tinsel and a Western-embellished shirt made sure there was plenty to sparkle about as well.
Rochas has yet to announce the new designer, out of respect for the one on the way out. But whoever it is, I’d place money they are no older than 35.