The Jacket as the Ultimate Statement If the entire Saint Laurent show was focused on the timelessness and allure of the perfect tailored jacket, interpreted in a variety of styles, fabrics, colors and proportions, Anthony Vaccarello made sure he kept the silhouette fresh by adding fetish elements, which were bold and modern
For his latest Saint Laurent show, Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello offered his personal take on one of the icons of the prestigious maison: the strong shouldered, sharply cut blazer with jeweled buttons, which the French master used to empower and free women throughout his career. The message of the show was simple, confident and very effective: the jackets were styled with shiny latex leggings and pussy bow blouses, taking the notion of bourgeois dressing to new perverted heights. This tension between conformity and rebellion, appropriateness and vulgarity, sensuality and restraint, was always been a Saint Laurent trademark, illustrated by the erotic imagery of Helmut Newton and the troubled character of Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour.
Structured, reliable and impeccably made, the Saint Laurent blazer is a fashion statement as well as a pragmatic and comfortable piece of clothing. Its sleek lines protect the wearer from the imperfections and disappointments of everyday life, acting like a beloved armor. In this sense, Vaccarello underlined the singular language of Saint Laurent, his love of ambiguity and exploration of gender divides. Is there something more suggestive, mysterious and attractive than a woman wearing a men’s jacket? Vaccarello expanded on his usual repertoire this season to include other standout pieces of outerwear: a fitted black trench with a silky finish, a three-button coat with narrow lapels or a chubby number in fluffy fox fur.
The color palette was vibrant, upbeat and feminine, including joyous shades of red, purple, yellow, green, midnight blue and fuchsia pink, again true Saint Laurent signatures, which have stood the test of time. Over the past couple of seasons, it feels as though Vaccarello has become confident enough to appropriate the Saint Laurent language for himself and offer his own perspective on the tricky notion of contemporary elegance. This was a striking collection, which not only proved the relevance of Yves Saint Laurent’s designs to this very day, but also evidenced Vaccarello’s increasingly strong hand in reinterpreting the richness of his heritage.