Review of Kenzo Spring 2024 Men’s Fashion Show
Nigo’s Big Rebrand
By Mark Wittmer
Overlooked by the Eiffel Tower, Paris’ Passerelle Debilly bridge on a breezy summer evening was the perfect setting for Nigo’s fourth show as creative director of Kenzo, which delivered prim yet billowing Japan-influenced takes on French classics.
The collection was probably the most subdued iteration of Nigo’s new vision for the house yet, carrying forward his vision of combining Japanese workwear, streetwear, and French chicness but dropping the logomania of previous collections.
Which isn’t to say there aren’t logos; the collection is another confirmation that Nigo’s appointment to the heritage brand is a commercial-forward play, deploying signature aesthetics and brand iconography in a way that feels direct, youthful, and accessible.
Beginning with indigo denim-heavy looks, the collection then pays homage to the OG Kenzo’s penchant for floral prints, then moves to synthesize French tailoring and outerwear classics with streetwear volumes, with baggy knee-length shorts guiding our eyes to the spiffy new sneakers which feel like the collection’s money piece.
The switch to Nigo as creative director felt a bit jarring during the first few seasons – it felt like a pretty significant departure from Felipe Oliveira Baptista before him, who was more committed to carrying forward Kenzo Takada’s legacy of provocation and innovation. But now that we’re acquainted with the new brand identity, we can see that Nigo is a strong pick for doing what it is the brand wants to do.
While it looks like Nigo’s Kenzo won’t offer any surprises and has shifted more towards commercial accessibility, the revamped brand identity is certainly consistent.
