Spirit and Resilience
Review of Max Mara Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
It must be said that Ian Griffith’s enthusiastic drive at the helm of the Max Mara brand is boundless. His vision is contemporary, infusing modernity into a time-honored legacy, which could prove to be a challenging project for some. The music set the scene – a marvelous mix of 1940s swing developed by Johnny Dynell and Ian Griffiths. Griffiths drew from the heartwarming and enduring legacy of the Women’s Land Army, his collection a tribute to those women who bravely stepped beyond societal norms during World War II. Evoking a countryside aesthetic, the collection seamlessly integrates rustic undertones with cultivated sophistication, suggesting a sense of “urban pastoral, “ blending functionality with finesse to reflect femininity’s strength and gentleness.
The utilitarian workwear, reminiscent of the sturdy uniforms of the land girls, is brought to life with colors inspired by the English countryside. Floral chintz prints, evoking images of Vita Sackville-West’s famed garden at Sissinghurst, drape effortlessly on contemporary designs, marrying the ruggedness of the 1940s with the delicate charm of an English garden.
This collection is a celebration of women’s resilience and elegance and an ode to the timeless allure of English horticulture. The sophisticated black-on-beige chintzy prints, scattered over two delightful chiffon dresses that blew carefree, to the characterful drills dyed in a profusion of colors, evocative of a garden’s rosy pinks, and blues, along with the sandy neutrals that form the collection’s backbone — all pay homage to the gardens that have been both a refuge and a source of inspiration. With Max Mara, the modern woman can carry a piece of history, the spirit of resilience, and the eternal charm of the English garden.
THE BUZZWORDS
Modernity, Elegance, Utility workwear, Ease, Colourful
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 47
It was the closing black and white ensemble that truly epitomized Max Mara’s vision for the season. With its oversized ‘fishtailed’ chintz top paired impeccably with a woven overskirt and the gentle whisper of a chiffon underskirt, this outfit beautifully merged the countryside’s rugged charm with the city’s refined elegance.
THE DIRECTION
Ian Griffiths’ direction for Max Mara this season pays a heartfelt tribute to the resilience and creativity of the Women’s Land Army. The lush palette he employed is evocative of English gardens in full bloom, effortlessly juxtaposing vibrant hues with the muted warmth of rosy pinks and the richness of autumnal shades. These colors, under Griffiths’ deft touch, serve as a canvas for the fabrics: garment-dyed cotton sculpting work jackets, apron-front pencil dresses, and practical overalls that echo the Land Army’s utilitarian wear. But it’s unmistakably Max Mara—these designs don’t merely mirror the past; they elevate it, infusing luxury and a contemporary sensibility into every piece. This collection revives the spirit of the past and propels it forward. From patched knit jerseys that nod to the wartime “make-do-and-mend” ethos to Max Mara’s signature camel tones embellished with modern twists like jodhpur pants and parachute-strapped corsets, Ian Griffiths presents a masterful blend of history and modernity. Judging by today’s response, this collection will add even more to the expanding clientele.
The materials were thrown into a washing machine with potted dye inspired by uniforms and workwear as if the women personalized their uniforms. They are deliberately garment dyed, giving each piece a unique character. For the quintessential Max mara woman, I looked to Phoebe Waller-Bridge and Lee Miller, these women epitomize the Max Mara woman’s spark of humor, wit, and independence. – Griffiths
THE WRAP UP
In essence, Max Mara’s collection is a love letter to the resilience, innovation, and style of the Women’s Land Army. It’s not just about fashion; it’s about history, passion, and the ceaseless inspiration derived from women who dared to redefine boundaries. Just as these women cultivated the lands, Max Mara has cultivated a collection that is both timeless and timely, a testament to the enduring allure of country aesthetics in a contemporary setting.
Griffiths has cultivated a collection that is both timeless and timely, beautifully melding the enduring allure of country aesthetics with urban sophistication. This direction perfectly encapsulates the essence of Max Mara, a brand becoming increasingly synonymous with a modern, empowered lifestyle. Max Mara delves deep, setting a benchmark for authentic inspiration.
