Italian designer Luca Magliano reflects on his label’s journey, marking a steady acceleration in the fashion world
Italian designer Luca Magliano reflects on his label’s whirlwind journey since its launch, describing it as a steady acceleration rather than a sudden surge. Returning to Pitti Uomo, where he debuted in 2018, Magliano is now a guest designer, joining the ranks of esteemed predecessors like Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner.
The upcoming show promises a fusion of Magliano’s signature vintage aesthetic with nods to classic styles. Collaborations with heritage Italian brands Kiton and Borsalino add artisanal touches to the fall 2024 collection, creating a total look that marks a milestone for the designer.
The location, Florence’s Nelson Mandela Forum, may diverge from the city’s Renaissance heritage, but Magliano sees its social significance as crucial. The show’s set design aims to portray the brand’s journey, balancing the effort and vertigo with a touch of celebration.
The fall 2024 collection explores fashion staples through Magliano’s lens, showcasing knitted twinsets, English-inspired tailoring, and a fluid, worn-in attitude. The collaboration with Kiton, a brand admired for its commitment to luxury through traditional processes, yields a milestone handmade ensemble.
Magliano’s approach to fashion, rooted in a bittersweet and nostalgic vibe, sets him apart from typical Millennial designers. His brand’s evolution, from bold ’80s-inspired collections to soulful, vintage menswear, reflects a maturation in both style and communication.
Reflecting on pivotal moments like the pandemic and digital presentations, Magliano emphasizes the importance of translating a cinematic value into physical shows. The fall 2024 presentation draws inspiration from Andrei Tarkovsky’s “Nostalghia,” highlighting Italy’s realistic and less-glamorized beauty.
As Magliano Srl sold a minority stake to Underscore District, the brand shifted focus to future strategies and business plans. Despite accolades like the Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize at the LVMH Prize, Magliano acknowledges the challenges of handling increasing attention. He expresses a desire to return to a more concentrated and focused approach in the coming year.
