Fendi Goes Town & Country Over Manor Born
Review of Fendi Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
A similar thread of country pursuits and outdoor living, which Silvia Venturini Fendi presented for her Fendi menswear show in January was seen today for fall 2024. But, it turns out, the Fendi lady is more town and country than ‘To the Manor Born’. In the first instance, the thigh-high boots made for walking country lanes or stomping to stockholder meetings, which were teased ahead of the show make the case for the duality which made up the looks for fall.
As unexpected as it may seem for this brand, there was an underlying idea of Jones having perfected the ‘perfect’ pieces for fall – whether the midi coat, knitted dress, and leather shift – forget about those minimalist labels, here is a brand that knows how to wardrobe build. And with colour (always a key driver of that concept) taking from Fendi’s historic past of using contrasting hues in the colour-blocking method, for fall Jones provided a DIY-esque way to dress yourself. Colour came in a versatile kit of adaptable details, such as a mustard knitted band (worn over a black mini dress), a contrast aubergine sleeve on an off-shoulder dress in khaki, and an upturned sweater-cum-bolero over a light mint shirt dress with the purple knitted sleeve also employed here.
This collection will sell on its attention to cut and fabric, especially when all the layers of styling are removed at retail. What will draw Fendi loyalists in, is the attention to detail and the Italian craftsmanship which was evident from the opening look. A simple wool tailored coat with a seductively curved collar, then a cinched-in skirt suit with upturned collar (as was seen at Dior Men’s), and a crisp waist-seamed shirt will all get the day-job done. And for when returning to the country pile two-tone denim, crackled leather utility jackets, and sturdy leather A-line skirts, all topped off with second-skin snoods will keep the cold at bay. The only caveat to the perfect capsule being that styling detail of the undone bodysuit which seemed out of place and more akin to fast fashion e-commerce tricks, which could have been left out of the edit, or fashioned into an elongated tie detail for a directional twist.
THE BUZZWORDS
Buildable blocking, Country pile(on), more-than-minimal
THE SHOWSTOPPER
The classic cable is used as the starting point for a sculptural reimagining, which due to the abstract finish achieved, can be worn as an alternative evening option, when paired with a sheer maxi.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
For fall, Kim Jones married outdoor pursuits with urban necessity, presenting a wardrobe that could easily navigate between town and country life. Highlighted by its versatility, the collection featured tailored wool coats with seductive curves, cinched-in skirt suits, two-tone denim and cracked leather pieces, designed with the Italian craftsmanship Fendi is renowned for. Despite a minor misstep with an undone bodysuit detail, the collection excelled in wardrobe-building essentials, from midi coats to knitted dresses, emphasised by a bold use of colour-blocked contrasting hues.
