10 Years Down at LV, Ghesquière Is Still Moving Forward
Review of Louis Vuitton Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Though Nicolas Ghesquière’s Fall 2024 collection for Louis Vuitton was presented exactly on the tenth anniversary of his first show for the house, and at the same location – Paris’ iconic Louvre museum – the collection was much more about moving forward than looking back. The scintillating outing showcased the creative director’s inimitable knack for disruptive silhouettes and freely combining historical references with the avant-garde, as well as going big on movement, texture, and shine.
The opening looks see technical activewear construction and materials reworked as cutely proportioned jacket dresses. Elsewhere, classically luxurious materials are given innovative treatments, like the laser cut silk or dresses with feathers and deconstructed crinolines that look like they were beamed back from jazz parties of the future.
Many looks achieved a strong balance of elevation and infinite wearability, like the oversized T-shirt dresses that ended in crazily cascading ruffles. Elsewhere, it seemed like Ghesquière was just having fun designing looks that moved in the most interesting way possible – see, for example, the look with the amazing furry winged shoulders. The faux fur and feathers also threaded their way throughout much of the collection as statement gloves which lent a new dimension to the silhouette and amplified the lush sense of movement.
THE BUZZWORDS
Scintillating. Retrofuturist. Avant-pop.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #62
One of a series of feathery dresses with deconstructed crinolines, the motion and color story of this look sung beautifully.
THE DIRECTION
Perfectly fitting the feeling of the collection, the futuristic, chandelier-adorned glasshouse set was designed once again by renowned artist Philippe Parreno in collaboration with production designer James Chinlund.
THE WRAP UP
While the collection felt like a fitting victory lap for a thoroughly impressive ten-year tenure at the house, it was even moreso a promise that Ghesquière won’t be running out of steam any time soon. Fun yet sophisticated and replete with beautiful movement, the show was a great finale to a strong Paris Fashion Week.
