Undercover’s Premium Bohemian Takes a Psychedelic Trip
Review of Undercover Spring 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Jun Takahashi’s spring 2025 Undercover collection looked at tailoring from a new perspective, not from the traditional West-facing Savile Row viewpoint but from a Global South standpoint. Where the premise of tailoring as an everyday choice is not so buttoned-up and structured. Todays show was opened with a film of what could have only been described as an alt-soft rock Tiny Desk session – but was actually Australian band Glass Beams who Jun Takahashi had discovered via YouTube – which provided the trippy opener and soundtrack for the show. After the attendees were suitably vibing to the sounds of Glass Beams, the first models entered the showspace.
For spring 2025 the infectious bohemian theme that has seen a resurgence within womenswear was at play today, but rather than a polished presentation of ruffles and paisley prints, Takahashi has looked across open borders, and imagined a version with more mystique. Tailoring looked as if all of its underpinnings had been pulled out and a shadow made from delicate linen was all that remained. In some looks resembling the Indian kantha quilt technique, while in offers what an intrepid explorer may have worn centuries ago, compete with sleeves that were coming apart at the seams, only attached by the humble fastening of a bow. Cloud prints and houses in dreamscapes allude to what the mind might conjure up if on a psychedelic trip.
Paisley prints and flocked jacquard were used on pyjama-like sets and Bermuda shorts (and were a little reminiscent of Dries Van Noten), while Takahashi provided a grounding to this collection which felt as if it could float away, with sleeveless utility jackets and speckled-print technical parkas with matching joggers.
There was a tenable link to the western world with a collaboration with sportswear giant champion in slouchy sweat sets looking less streetwear and more hybrid lounge, which easily fits them within this collection. Another area where the brands streetwear influences softened was in the patchwork lace pieces – from a pieced parka to woven sweatshirt and boxy shirt – resembling camouflage in tones of brown, grey, and beige, which are sure to be snapped up as a key look from the collection by both sexes.
THE BUZZWORDS
Shadow tailoring, soft sensuality, eclectic eccentricity
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #55
The inclusion of skirts looks new and feels far from contrived as they are reminiscent of the soft wrapping of a sarong, widely worn by men across the Indian sub-continent.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Encompassing a more tangible real-world version of Bohemia, Jun Takahashi has created an enchanting collection of floating layered looks which take inspiration from the way men dress in the Global South, and rather than trying to co-opt looks wholesale this collection injects elements such as utility or sportswear to ensure it remains relevant and influential.
