How MCM Combines Heritage, Sustainability and Digital Innovation with a Female-led C-Suite Defying Industry Norms
By Angela Baidoo
Standing apart within the luxury fashion industry, Munich-founded luxury fashion brand MCM (which stands for Modern Creation München and is also the initials of founder Michael Cromer, with the addition of Munich) have been on a path to re-position themselves for success, and a key driving factor of that strategy – one which many other house’s cannot also pride themselves on – is a powerful female-led leadership team, steering a million-dollar brand into a new era.
Moving their narrative forward through the hiring of respected creatives, trusted leaders, and fashion trailblazers, MCM’s C-suite team is a collaborative partnership of Chairperson Kim Sung-Joo, President and Global Brand and Commercial Officer, whose Sungjoo group (of which she is the Chief Visionary Officer) acquired MCM in 2005. Sabine Brunner President and Global Commercial and Brand Officer, and Creative Director Katie Chung who is leading the development of the new global design and creative vision.
Founded in 1976, MCM came of age during a golden time for Munich when the bright lights of the city attracted the jet set – David Bowie, Freddie Mercury – via the intoxicating sounds of Disco music. Establishing itself among Germanys many iconic fashion names which have managed to successfully export their design ideals to a global audience.
The unmistakable cognac-hued leather, MCM logo and signature symbol – ribbon-tied laurel leaves in homage to King Ludwig I – converge with a diamond pattern as the brands Visetos logo which has accompanied some their most popular designs, such as the enduringly iconic backpack. These design markers of the house have become a thread stitching together the worlds of music (Beyoncé wore custom MCM for The Carters ‘Ape****’ video set in the Louvre museum), sports (German footballer Jonathan Tah is an MCM Maverick, the word the brand uses as an update to ambassadors), art and design (they created the Wearable Casa exhibition at this years Salon del Mobile in Milan), and the metaverse (a virtual store was unveiled on the Caliverse, allowing customers to make purchases virtually and reimagining the M in their logo, so its stands for the Metaverse).
In recent years the brand has adapted to meet the needs and desires of it’s new customers (partnering with Seoul-based street artist SAMBYPEN and new Mavericks, model and actor Raynold Tan and digital creator Rachel Wong), while continuing to authentically connect with their original fans who have grown up with the brand, through campaigns with models Cindy Crawford, Cara Delevingne, actor Matt Dillon, and DJ Honey Dijon.
MCM has also managed to retain a cultural relevance through partnerships with streetwear brand BAPE, British fashion designer Christopher Raeburn, artist Tobias Rehberger and celebrity stylist and image architect Misa Hylton, and through harnessing their reputation as a trusted luxury travel and luggage brand. 2020 also became a pivotal year where a commitment to a sustainable vision – which included a reduction in emissions and climate protection, outerwear enhanced with biodegradable nylon, limited edition upcycled accessories, and an expansion into E-bikes – was outlined as part of their MCM Vision 2023 manifesto.
In light of the brands continued evolution and commitment to break industry norms with its female leadership team, I was excited to have been given the opportunity to speak with Sabine Brunner and Katie Chung for The Impression on their collaborative process, dedication to heritage and sustainability, and the new era which the brand is entering. With a conversation centered around MCM’s authentic marketing strategies which has deeply connected with their community, reimagining the desirability of their classic heritage products, and their integration of digital into their DNA.
Disrupting Industry Norms
Angela Baidoo: It’s truly refreshing to see a female-led luxury brand in today’s fashion landscape, can you both share a bit about your backgrounds and how your experiences helped shape your approach to world-building at MCM?
Sabine Brunner: I come from a luxury accessories background and worked for many years for Mr Della Valle (whose family founded Tod’s in 1920) in Asia, for the groups brands and then in Paris developing Roger Vivier globally. Going back to MCM after these experiences has really given me the opportunity to merge all my past learnings to transform and bring MCM towards its future trajectory of growth.
Katie Chung: I’ve been working as a creative director for a designer brand called WOOYOUNGMI that focuses on men’s clothing. My experiences has helped create a genderless look for MCM, where new tailoring-based items can be incorporated.
Working between Milan and Seoul from a creative and design perspective must offer an interesting dynamic – as you are able to tap into what is happening on the ground in each region – how has this benefitted your working relationship?
SB: It’s the best, as we complement each other. Also, Katie studied and lived in Europe for many years, and I lived in HK for 15 years, so we already have very similar experiences in terms of a cultural mix.
KC: Working between Europe and Asia offers a unique dynamic that benefits our working relationship by tapping into the diverse cultural and design perspectives of each region. This exposure helps in creating collections that are both innovative and rooted in rich cultural heritages, enhancing the overall creative process, and ensuring a blend of global influences in our designs.
You have managed to occupy a rare, sweet spot, where your price point, brand values, and product offer align. How do you strike that balance? Ensuring you are reaching, and drawing, in consumers from different levels of the market?
SB: This is how we work every day, making sure that all elements are included in what we develop. We have incredible talents in our team that ensure we reach these goals in every aspect of the development process.
KC: We strike this balance by modernising iconic heritage designs with contemporary elements and advanced materials, ensuring the brand maintains its essence while staying relevant. Our focus on creating versatile and high-quality products appeals to both young trendsetters and those who appreciate timeless elegance with a smart price value.
The Power of Maverick Marketing
You call your brand ambassadors ‘MCM Mavericks’, I love that term! And with the launch of Honey Dijon as your latest, what was it about the word ‘Maverick” over ambassador that appealed?
SB: Diverse and dynamic, these digital nomads follow their own true north, traveling effortlessly between the realms of the virtual, the physical and the cultural. They move through these spaces purposefully, driven by a desire to discover what’s new, and to create what’s next. They are the optimistic and constructive rulebreakers; the open- minded groundbreakers, challenging old assumptions in pursuit of innovation and transformation. They know the rules of style and know how to break them. They are reinventing traditional notions of status and disrupting old ideals of luxury. Fluent in the language of today’s trends, they seek out brands that let them make their own independent statement – the truest Mavericks.
Can you share with us what was behind the decision to travel back in time with Cindy Crawford for the 2023 campaign? Especially as she was the face of the brand once before in 1996.
SB: Cindy was so iconic to the brand that when we discussed with Baron&Baron about how to rebuild the brand image, it came as evidence that she should be the one to represent MCM again. The image was shot by Jurgen Teller and it really represents the “enfant terrible” spirit of MCM.
Your collaborations always appear very organic – from Crocs to Bape – what are some of the things you consider before deciding to partner with other brands? And are there any that you are keen to work with in the future?
SB: Usually we are approached, and we then evaluate if the brand DNA is aligned. It is important to understand what each brand can bring to another as usually this creates fantastic opportunities to touch new audiences. Our next one is with Harper Collective, an amazing company created by Jaden Smith and Sebastian Manes, creating luggage from upcycled plastic from the ocean. They are the most beautiful products and we personalised them with upcycled MCM materials.
Building a New Design Narrative for the Next Generation
Seasonlessness has become a key part of your narrative, how are you encouraging your customer to buy into your best-sellers and shop more consciously in this fast-paced industry that is constantly focussed on the next big thing?
SB: Buy less, buy better. Our products last for many many years and our designs are timeless. We also host a lot of styling classes showing our consumers how to combine products from past seasons. We design new products keeping in mind what we already have and how they can integrate with the past seasons. This is a priority.
KC: We encourage customers to invest in best-sellers and shop more consciously by focusing on timeless designs with most the updated functionality and high-quality materials. This promotes a more sustainable approach to fashion, countering fast-paced industry trends. In addition, we constantly propose ways to create new looks while mixing and matching existing products to bring freshness to the look.
Football is becoming further entwined with the world of fashion, so a capsule for the ‘Euros 2024’ tournament (hosted by Germany) starring football player Jonathan Tah in the campaign seemed perfectly aligned. Is the sports arena the next frontier?
SB: We have always been very close to soccer players. We are exploring new sports of course for our Maverick tribe but we also include new sports related products in our collection as we truly believe that Health is the new Wealth.
Your ultra-luxe diamond embellished bags are an exciting new addition to your product offer and are sure to draw in a new tier of luxury customer, are there any plans to develop more of these wow pieces in the future, possibly in other categories?
KC: The ‘Novelty line’ is always featured in the MCM collection. It will showcase products needed for several special events, such as Ramadan, holidays and gala dinners, and will develop products that can be carried around on a daily basis as well as used for fancy parties, in line with the lifestyle needs of the busy modern youth.
And can you both share which are some of your current favourite products from the current collection?
SB: For me, it’s the new 3D Diamant handbag, as well as our chunky sandals that I wear almost every day as they match any outfit, and the light weight is amazing. I also really like the new eyewear from our new collaboration with Marcolin.
KC: My favourite product in this collection is the 3D Diamant. Inspired by the diamonds inside the Visetos monogram pattern, it’s combined with a practical pocket form to create a new MCM-specific look. I also like our denim products with the all-over laurel symbol.
M Stands For Metaverse
You have talked a lot in the press about wanting to position this new era of MCM as centring around being a digitally driven luxury brand, what does that mean for the future, and also in the now?
SB: It means creating a strong presence in the digital world, currently and in the future, but also having digital experiences in our stores for example. Also, AI is something that we have already integrated into many fields of our company, and it is incredible how this will lead to more efficient production processes, limiting waste, reducing inventories, and improving sell throughs.
KC: Positioning MCM as a digitally driven luxury brand involves leveraging technology to enhance the customer experience and streamline operations. This strategy includes the development of branded tech products and integration of digital innovations like AR and AI into the shopping experience, ensuring we remain at the forefront of modern luxury.
Your consideration of the role that tech plays in our lives everyday has led to the development of tailored branded-products, from wireless headphones, Airpod cases, and phone pouches. Is this a key part of your ‘Digital Nomad Lifestyle’ strategy offering a seamless way for tech to be integrated into fashion?
KC: Yes, the development of branded tech products tailored to everyday life is a key part of our ‘Digital Nomad Lifestyle’ strategy. We use a material called Visetos to reflect the current era and constantly update products needed for the lifestyles of the younger generation. This design strategy is also reflected in every small detail, such as the pocket size of the latest mobile phone, not just in the product.
Speaking of innovation, chairperson and chief visionary officer Ms Kim presented during the SKP Fashion & beauty Global Summit from the metaverse, how does this tie into the brands vision for intelligent luxury, and what does that mean?
SB: The metaverse is already existing. All gaming platforms offer more than simple games. The metaverse is the perfect bridge between physical and digital, and we call it the phygital world. You have two different dimensions where you can live and experience. When we created the design week exhibition, also on Spatial, it allowed for everyone to be able to experience it. Not everybody can travel to Milan, so this is an amazing way to reach our digital nomads wherever they are.
Banking On a Female-Led Future
The signature cognac colour is such a strong marker of the MCM heritage and its brand codes – speaking to a retro aesthetic, which again feels new – has this helped to introduce MCM to a new generation, as strong colour stories are becoming a key part of luxury’s brand marketing strategy?
KC: I think it is with great luck that each brand can have its own color and communicate with it. Fortunately, MCM already had a great brand colour called Cognac, which is neutral and genderless, and we reinterpreted it in a modern way during our recent re-branding. I think this will definitely come across as fresh and new for the younger generation of luxury consumer, because this is a visual that has never been seen before by them.
You are due to celebrate your 50th year in business soon, can you share any plans you have around how the brand will celebrate?
SB: There will be a lot of activities. We want to celebrate our great German roots, so we are working on amazing collaborations. But it’s a little too early to unveil everything we are working on.
KC: Specific plans for celebrating our 50th anniversary are still in the works, but we will likely focus on honouring our rich German heritage while showcasing innovations that highlight our future direction.
And lastly, what has surprised you most in your journey with MCM?
SB: The amazing history that this brand has, we discover new elements, stories, and images every day and it is sometimes really mind blowing. We also appreciate the incredible energy and vision that our chairperson and owner Mrs. Sungjoo Kim puts into the brand everyday.
KC: My journey with MCM has likely been filled with unexpected learnings and growth opportunities. The focus on pushing boundaries and embracing innovation suggests a dynamic and ever-evolving experience with the brand.
