Vaccarello’s Elusive Muse Suits Up
Review of Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Tailored. Nostalgic. Elegant ease.
While last season’s parade of models minimally wrapped in sheer layers with their breasts very much exposed earned Anthony Vaccarello accusations of misogyny and being out of touch – especially after the surprise menswear followup was all about beautiful oversized tailoring – today’s Spring 2025 collection from Saint Laurent took things in a very different direction. This direction, in fact, was much more aligned with the aforementioned menswear show, tapping into Yves’ iconic Le Smoking tuxedo and his idea of a more “masculine” tailoring for women. Aside from the addition of chunky jewelry, many of the looks toward the beginning of the collection feel like they were pulled directly from the men’s show, from the voluminous, broad-shouldered double-breasted suits and ties down to the chunky statement spectacles.
Vaccarello lends further complexity and impact to this silhouette, however, as he layers over additional oversized outerwear pieces – sometimes with a kind of high-low clash – like trench coats, military-inspired leather jackets, and silk bombers.
The collection then takes a bit of a turn as Vaccarello layers in the closest thing to boho-chic we’ll see from him, incorporating floor-length tiered skirts, flowy, paisley-printed tunic tops, and chunky, vaguely exotic (for lack of a better word) necklaces.
Another unexpected turn characterizes the final 15 looks, which see a very vintage-inspired silhouette and fabric selection through Vaccarello’s rakish and sensual lens. While the vibrant jewel tones are fitting for a finale and it’s a welcome move to see this unexpected textural direction, it’s a bit tough to see ruffled necklines, lacy pussy-bow blouses (which really should be renamed or perhaps left behind all together), and jackets in quilted metallic florals as anything other than old lady-esque, no matter how beautifully made.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
It’s not always helpful to speculate, but it’s intriguing to consider whether Vaccarello had this show in mind all along during the previous season, or if he switched gears to extend the masculine tailoring into his women’s design as well as a kind of concession to the backlash he faced when he did the exact opposite. If the latter is the case, it could explain some of the disconnect between the various beats of this collection, but it also means Vaccarello deserves commendation for taking the constructive criticism – especially because the suiting looks were the strongest part of the collection.
Nonetheless, a bit of the criticism still lingers that Vaccarello doesn’t seem concerned with taking the brand forward or engaging with the reality around him. The suits are beautiful, and it would be great to see a suit continue to become more of a gender neutral category, and in that sense the collection is somewhat progressive (although Yves was doing the same thing 60 years ago). Though they are equally beautifully made and add further dimension to the creative director’s very consistent vision for the brand, other parts of the collection – especially the series of closing looks – show that the world of Saint Laurent might not have much in common with our world and the real women who live in it.
