Subverting Culture through a Historical Lens at Marques’ Almeida
Review of Marques’ Almeida Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Fiercely modern, historical fascination, unabashed opulence
Firmly back on the London fashion week schedule, after returning last season with a collection celebrating the generational appeal of their brand, for spring 2025 Marques’ Almeida sent out a cast of models who were equally intrinsic to todays collection. In the fact that they were not the industry standard but an ongoing passion project for the duo to present their clothes on those who have an emotional tie with the brand, so friends, family, fans, and customers. This meant that the collection, rather than suffering from the monotony of an identical line-up of walking mannequins, was based in reality, giving all those who would hope to buy into the brand an honest view of what a signature Marques’ Almeida silhouette – in all its puff-sleeve, flared leg grandeur – would look like on them. Here we had women of all ages and heights, and statures, with the team revealing backstage “We started back in 2016 … and we asked around our friends, friends of friends, people who bought the brand, because we thought if they wear and love it why not bring them in to walk the show? And we built a community around that to the point where they’ve grown with us, even age-wise, for example some of the women who have walked our shows are actually the mothers of our current models. So it’s a natural way to keep ourselves inclusive.”
For spring 2025 the raw opulence they described in their show notes was always at play, this time inspired by “17th century Dutch paintings and Baroque influences” according to those same notes. Denim was “embossed with intricate flower designs” while their dressier looks, which were embellished all-over with sequins, was an example of the ornate elegance which “comes out through unconventional materials and silhouettes” as the base for these dresses was everyday linen.
Describing their brand as one of “defiant beauty” through the implementation of “Intentional carelessness” forgoing the trappings of keeping clothing pristine edges were left raw, hems uneven, ruffles spilling out of openings, and crinkled and skewed shirt dresses Which in the hands of an unseasoned team may have resulted in an unfinished effect, but having been in the business for more than a decade there is a seasoned level of experience in intertwining the raggedness (working classes) and structure (upper classes) of historical dress and subverting it to have new cultural relevance.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
We like to take those brocades that come from the baroque references and turn it on its head with the shape that we put it in, such as baggy jeans that are dragging on the floor, making them non-precious, so subverting the idea of brocade and taking it somewhere else”Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, creative directors, Marques’ Almeida
THE WRAP UP
Many designers have been known to pillage a history book of two, but like some of their peers and predecessors, the designers have managed to ride each wave of trending fashion obsession (puff ball skirts being one of the most popular across social media at this current moment) to stick with their MA-coded exaggerated curves and volume while still keeping it current.
