She is Everything She Wants to Be
Review of Nensi Dojaka Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Duality, soft power, haute lingerie
Back in her hometown and adding to the drama of the imposing space that was the historic St Pancras Renaissance Hotel we awaited Nensi Dojaka’s re-entry onto the London scene after taking off two season from the runway.
Her spring 2025 collection was a reminder of everything which made her name as one of the most influential shows on the calendar. Mainly for her take on sensuality that is more suited to say Milan fashion week, but her lingerie inspired looks brought a heady dose of sexy back to the city all the same.
As one of the last shows of the day the designer drew a crowd which seemed to buzz off nervous energy, waiting to discover how she would evolve her signature construction techniques. What was received was an update through a loosening of her strict seaming with the addition of ruffled layers, plisse, thigh-high splits and asymmetric slinky jersey, as well as a palette of soft pastels.
An appreciation of how women choose to dress up now – by pairing her models looks with demure flats – will be noted by her fans who more often than not wear her designs with a uniform of sky-high stilettos and a swipe of red lipstick. But in the designers world women can have duality and both dress up and down as the mood suits.
A collaboration with Calvin Klein was so perfectly aligned, being that Dojaka’s designs lend themselves so well to the lingerie market that the American lifestyle brand must have been eyeing the designer since her debut. Featuring a section of the key looks from their collaboration, there were options for after dark moments, as well as for when her customer wants to simply lounge at home. It is likely that many of her looks will also find their way onto the dance floor.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Tonight was an affirmation of Nensi Dojaka and her growing brand, with an enviable front row – Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Dina Asher Smith – and the support of fashion key decision makers also in attendance, spring 2025 was an easy evolution of her brand codes which saw a move into a more vibrant palette, interesting construction techniques and the return of her use of embellishment, so while her show notes professed the simple phrase “You are everything” it would appear the designer may have also been talking about herself
Her collaboration with Calvin Klein whether she is contracted for a season or as part of a significant contract will serve to benefit the brand in either scenario. As a short-term partnership would allow the designer to test demand for her own range of haute lingerie, while a long-term investment would give Dojaka what most young designers are desperately seeking, financial stability, either way Dojaka wins.
