Crafted in Color: Ulla Johnson’s Bold Spring 2025 Collection
Review of Ulla Johnson Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Craft, Utility, & Artistry
Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2025 collection stands as a testament to the intersection of art and fashion. Drawing inspiration from the abstract expressionism of Lee Krasner’s paintings—Comet, Portrait in Green, and Palingenesis—Johnson brought the canvas to life after a two-year collaboration with Krasner’s estate. The result was not only a visual feast but also an emotional one, reflecting both women’s deep connection to nature and their shared journey as New York-based creators.
The prints, adorned on everything from cotton sportswear to flowing midi dresses, seamlessly fused Krasner’s abstract gestures with Johnson’s bohemian sensibilities. The designs celebrated the vibrant beauty of Krasner’s work, transforming it into something more tangible—something to be worn, lived in, and experienced. Johnson’s understanding of texture and movement was key, ensuring that these artistic interpretations felt alive on the body.
Yet, the collection was more than a celebration of color and pattern. Johnson pushed boundaries by having male models wear pieces originally designed for women, hinting at a potential expansion into menswear. This subtle shift in gender presentation added depth to the narrative, highlighting the fluidity of both the collection and the artistic world it draws from.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
I’ve had a lifelong affinity for Krasner—her use of color, the place and time she inhabited as a woman, essentially making her mark alongside her husband, Jackson Pollock, and then continuing her work for four decades after his passing. She worked so hard to prove herself as a painter in her own right. We talked a lot about bringing her work to life, animating it, and dressing women and men in her incredible gestural strokes. I’ve always felt such a deep connection to her work.
THE WRAP UP
What stood out in this collection was Johnson’s ability to balance utility with craft. Practical pieces like patch-pocket denim and military-inspired jackets were juxtaposed with intricate designs, including a shredded yarn set and a black dress with gold bead fringe—each piece an exploration of craft as art. This tension between functionality and beauty felt intentional, speaking to both Krasner’s artistic legacy and Johnson’s evolving voice in the fashion world.
Both Krasner and Johnson experienced underappreciation early in their careers, only to be recognized later as true powerhouses in their respective fields. As Krasner did with her paintings, Johnson’s collection invites participation and reflection. It’s not merely something to observe; it’s something to live in, to be part of. The spirit of both women—the artist and the designer—remains alive in this collection, offering a wearable testament to their shared legacy.
Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2025 collection feels like a pivotal moment in her career—one that underscores her capacity to merge artistry with wearability while challenging conventions of gender and utility. Like Krasner’s work, it leaves the viewer breathless, transformed, and eager to see where she takes us next.
