Reconnecting Through Craft: Proenza Schouler’s Confident Revival
Review of Proenza Schouler Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE VIBE
Architecturally Inspired & Modernly Refined
As the first show of the season, Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer collection offered an understated yet impactful start to what lies ahead in fashion. In a small, intimate gathering, there was a sense of reconnection and quiet anticipation in the room—a moment to take in the calm before the excitement of Fashion Week fully set in. The sunlit industrial venue in Tribeca created the perfect backdrop for a collection that felt like a fresh exploration of the brand’s familiar codes, with a palpable sense of new beginnings—not just for the brand, but for the industry as a whole.
As the luxury market faces economic challenges, Proenza Schouler’s collection offered a thoughtful response to the moment: moving away from quiet luxury into something more personal, more connected.
This season, Proenza Schouler embraced a thoughtful reconstruction. After several seasons of stripping back and reducing elements, the collection explored how to bring those fundamentals into new territory. The balance between structure and fluidity remained a key signature, with an effortless blend of craft and precision. Strong stripes, fluid fringes, and layered textures moved with ease, creating a rhythm that felt both polished and organic—reflecting the brand’s ability to evolve without losing its core identity.
Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez also tapped into the emotional undercurrent of the current landscape, where basics no longer hold the same allure. “No one needs another black suit,” Hernandez noted, reflecting how the focus has shifted toward creating an emotional response. Proenza Schouler’s departure from minimalism was clear, with each piece feeling deliberate, alive, and deeply personal. Bold cuts, vibrant colors, and intricate craftsmanship were as much about how the clothes made the wearer feel as they were about aesthetics, forging a connection that went beyond the surface.
THE COLLECTION
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
For the last three seasons, we’ve really been working on reducing and stripping things back. I think with last season, we took it to the core—there wasn’t much left to strip away. This season is all about rebuilding, bringing back both old and new codes, and refining them. It’s a return to craft, reestablishing the essence of our brand.
THE WRAP UP
Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a clear step forward for the brand, offering a thoughtful balance of evolution and continuity. By embracing both old and new codes, the designers introduced a more personal, connected approach, moving away from the minimalist restraint of recent seasons. The collection blended structure with fluidity, from the movement of fringes and airy silhouettes to the precision of tailoring. Each piece felt alive, deliberate, and versatile, with an emphasis on craftsmanship and emotional resonance. In a luxury market facing economic slowdown, this collection felt like a deliberate, confident response—a reminder that fashion, at its best, evokes connection and desire.
