Paris Promises Some Major Changes This Season With All Eyes on Valentino
By Mackenzie Richard
As Paris Fashion Week approaches, the expectations for designers are higher than ever. In a landscape saturated with fashion weeks and endless collections, it’s no longer enough to merely present. Designers must deliver work that not only justifies its creation but also inspires and captivates.
Alessandro Michele’s inaugural collection for Valentino is set to be the season’s focal point. In an era marked by rapid turnover among creative directors at major European luxury houses, Paris Fashion Week usually boasts several high-profile debuts. This season, however, all eyes will be on Michele.
The most highly anticipated show will take place on Sunday, September 29, as former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele unveils his first collection for Valentino.
The reception of Michele’s collection will undoubtedly be significant, but the brand’s subsequent actions in the following months are just as crucial. Valentino’s owner, Mayhoola, is banking on Michele to drive growth for the brand, which has faced challenges in converting the dreamy couture of his predecessor, Pierpaolo Piccioli, into a commercially viable offering. Bridging the gap between runway fantasy and retail reality has always been Michele’s strength at Gucci
In an era where consumption fatigue is a genuine concern, we need collections that rekindle our sense of wonder, offering pieces so compelling that they become aspirations in themselves.
Index
- The Transitional Houses: A Moment for Reinvention
- The Rising Stars: Elevating to Parisian Standards
- Established Houses: The Need for Innovation
- The Power of Presentation: Showmanship Matters
- The Customer: Who Are We Designing For?
The Transitional Houses: A Moment for Reinvention
For brands like Chloé, McQueen, Valentino, Chanel, and Givenchy—transitional houses in the midst of evolution—the upcoming season presents a unique opportunity. These brands stand at a crossroads where their next steps could define a new chapter in their storied histories. Chloé, for instance, has made significant strides with a collection that successfully reimagines boho chic for the modern era. It’s a familiar aesthetic, yet it feels more mature, more refined, and with the potential to become iconic. The challenge now is for Chloé to build on this identity, cultivating it into something enduring and recognizable.
Similarly, McQueen faces the pressing need to reconnect with its core—imagination. Once synonymous with boundary-pushing creativity, the brand must now rise to the occasion, presenting work that feels fresh, unexpected, and genuinely worthy of its storied name.
The Rising Stars: Elevating to Parisian Standards
Gabriela Hearst and Peter Do, both designers with strong reputations in New York, face a different challenge in Paris. The Paris runway is an entirely different beast—where the standards are unrelenting, and the competition is fierce. For Hearst, this is a moment to demonstrate her evolution, now fully focused on her namesake label after departing Chloé. We expect to see a collection that leverages her experience in Paris, showing us something distinct, something that stands shoulder to shoulder with the best the city has to offer.
Peter Do, relatively new to this stage, must prove that he can rise to the occasion. New York may have afforded a more forgiving backdrop, but in Paris, there is no room for mediocrity.
Established Houses: The Need for Innovation
Even the most established houses are not immune to the pressures of innovation. Miu Miu, for example, has enjoyed success, but the recent luxury market slowdown is a stark reminder that complacency is not an option. These brands must continue to innovate, offering something fresh and unexpected. The demand is for collections that remain true to their DNA but also bring something new to the table—something that justifies their place in the modern wardrobe.
Brands like Dior, Chanel, and Acne Studios face the risk of predictability. While staying true to their heritage is crucial, they must also push boundaries, ensuring that their collections feel relevant and exciting. The key is to strike a balance between honoring the past and embracing the future—a challenge that few manage to navigate successfully.
The Power of Presentation: Showmanship Matters
In the age of social media, the way a collection is presented has become almost as important as the collection itself. Courrèges has excelled in this regard, with shows that are not just presentations but experiences. Other brands would do well to take note. The thoughtful approach to concept and narrative that Courrèges exemplifies is something that can elevate a collection from good to unforgettable.
Coperni’s recent promotion with Kylie Jenner, whether or not she attended the show, is another example of savvy marketing that generates buzz and keeps a brand in the conversation. As we move into this fashion season, the ability to think outside the box and use platforms like Instagram creatively will be crucial for brands looking to make a lasting impact.
The Customer: Who Are We Designing For?
Finally, designers must keep a clear focus on their audience. In a world where the aspirational customer is being squeezed, brands need to rethink their pricing strategies and consider the value they offer. The trend towards “less is more” is gaining traction, advocating for more edited shows that prioritize quality over quantity. This approach is not just about fashion but about sustainability and relevance in an increasingly crowded market.
As we look forward to Paris Fashion Week, the expectations are high. We want to see collections that inspire, presentations that captivate, and a clear understanding of who the modern luxury customer is. The brands that succeed will be those that can navigate these challenges with creativity, clarity, and a touch of audacity. After all, in a world where fashion is often more about statement than substance, it’s the designers who can deliver both that will truly stand out.
Key Takeaways
Transitional houses like Chloé and McQueen are at critical junctures in their evolution. But Alessandro Michele’s Valentino will be this week’s focal point. The pressure is on for these houses to innovate without losing sight of their heritage, while rising stars like Gabriela Hearst and Peter Do must prove they can meet the lofty expectations of Paris Fashion Week. Presentation will also be crucial, as designers must captivate not only with their collections but with showmanship that resonates in the digital age.
Across all cities, designers must remain aware of the shifting demands of the modern consumer. From balancing innovation with tradition to delivering collections that are both sustainable and luxurious, the ability to stay relevant while offering something fresh is the ultimate challenge this fashion week season.