The Independent Brand Is Seeking a Financial Partner as It Eyes Greater International Expansion
French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is seeking a minority investor to fuel the expansion of his eponymous brand, a move aimed at solidifying the company’s growth in a competitive luxury market. The designer confirmed this strategic shift to French newspaper Le Figaro, stating that while he values his brand’s independence, outside funding is necessary to overcome current financial limits and enable new opportunities, including further retail openings and a potential entry into beauty.
Jacquemus’ recent flagship opening in New York’s SoHo neighborhood signals a push into new markets, with additional stores planned for London and Los Angeles. This expansion comes amid a challenging time for the luxury sector, especially in light of weaker consumer sentiment and a downturn impacting revenue projections across the industry. With sales in 2023 totaling €270 million ($290 million), the brand continues to draw significant interest, particularly among Gen-Z consumers, though headwinds in Paris and a general shift toward in-person shopping experiences have affected some of its earlier e-commerce-centric growth strategies.
The brand has enlisted Rothschild & Co. to assist in identifying an investor as it looks toward expanding beyond its current retail footprint, focusing on the U.S., Asia, and Europe through 2025 and 2026. Discussions about funding are “well advanced,” Jacquemus added, but specific details remain under wraps. “This is a very positive step for Jacquemus and its teams. Talks are well advanced, but I can’t say more at this stage. We’re also considering diversifying into beauty,” he noted.
The planned London store, set to open November 15 on New Bond Street, has been designed by architect Rem Koolhaas’ OMA agency and will include designated spaces for menswear, womenswear, and a VIP salon. Jacquemus, who has retained dual roles as creative director and CEO since last December, described the new boutiques as pivotal for the brand’s evolution. “I feel extremely proud to be able, independently, to have opened boutiques in Paris, Saint-Tropez, Courchevel, Dubai, New York, and now London. It’s a very special moment for the brand and its growth,” he said.
With a medium-term target of €500 million in annual revenue initially projected for 2025, Jacquemus may adjust expectations given the broader market conditions and changing consumer behavior. Nonetheless, the brand’s steady popularity for iconic products like the Chiquito handbags underscores its resilience as Jacquemus explores new ventures to bolster its position in luxury fashion.