The Creative Director’s First Collections for the House Will Be Presented via a Co-Ed Runway Show During Paris Men’s Fashion Week
Lanvin is set to make its return to the Paris runway after a two-year hiatus with Peter Copping’s debut collection as the house’s artistic director. The co-ed fashion show will take place at the end of January during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, just ahead of Couture Week, marking a pivotal moment for the brand.
Copping, a seasoned designer known for his elegant, feminine creations, joined Lanvin in September 2024. His debut collection, still under wraps, promises to deliver what insiders describe as “a unified world of Lanvin,” featuring menswear, womenswear, and a robust expansion of accessories, including formal shoes and bags. The show will be Lanvin’s first on the official Paris schedule since March 2023, when former artistic director Bruno Sialelli helmed the brand.
Copping’s extensive résumé includes stints at Sonia Rykiel, Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and most recently, Balenciaga, where he oversaw special projects and VIP collaborations. His debut collection will also mark his first formal exploration of menswear as an artistic director.
This show is part of a broader reset at Lanvin, led by its parent company, Lanvin Group, and spearheaded by strategic efforts over the past three years. These include a refreshed logo, a renewed focus on leather goods and accessories, and the launch of Lanvin Lab, which has produced collaborations with figures like rapper Future and conceptual artist Erwin Wurm. Additionally, its “Character Studies” campaign, photographed by Steven Meisel, has served as a visual anchor for the brand’s evolving identity.
The upcoming runway presentation comes as Lanvin grapples with a challenging luxury market. Revenues in the first half of 2024 fell 15.4% to €48.3 million, reflecting a slowdown in global luxury consumption and struggles in wholesale channels. Despite this, heightened interest from department stores, stylists, and Hollywood connections suggests growing excitement around Copping’s debut.
Following the January show, Lanvin plans to group its Pre-Fall and Fall 2025 collections for selling sessions, signaling a strategic shift in its collection calendar. While future plans may include a return to the traditional Paris Fashion Week schedule, the immediate focus is on establishing a modern vision that feels “confidential” yet luxurious – what Lanvin calls a return to lechic ultime, or “the ultimate chic.”