Magliano Turns His World inside-out Via Romantic Excess
Review of Magliano Fall 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Creative Interrogation, Melancholic Romance, Refuge in Basics
Interrogation and investigation are part of Luca Magliano’s modus operandi, he embeds these in traditional codes of male dressing with palettes that lean into the industrial and silhouettes that are at ease (almost louche) but maintain a refined structure, while weathered embellishments satisfy the need for romance.
By perfecting this method for integrating notes of subtle surrealism in his work – which doesn’t appear contrived – layers of interest and value is to be found in his collections. There is also a sense of melancholy to be found, one that is reminiscent of an artist trying to remain true to himself in a world that rewards bombast. For fall 2025 muted melancholy was mixed with heartfelt emotion that invited the watcher to reach out and touch the silk shirts, chubby twisted sweats, and crushed velvet trousers. What is likely to inspire next season is the way fabric is manipulated and reconsidered. In amongst the brands signatures, were some unique takes on the humble trouser, from a navy velvet pair ‘sand-blasted’ with whiskers to appear as if denim and a pair of trousers in mohair, an unexpected styling turn as it was paired back with a blazer, offering up a new off-duty uniform option for menswear.
The concept of “inside-outness” was expressed comically as bags ‘wore’ underwear made in collaboration with Medea – known for their Nina bag mimicking the top half of a pair of denim jeans, waistbands were flipped to become hem details, and the silky internal linings of utility outerwear was subverted into a robe-like silhouette when belted with a thin tie.
Introduced in this collection was also the new ‘Nudo by Magliano’ line of basics, which appeared to be anything but basic. The underwear market is often the most obvious extension for brands as designers look to cater more towards lifestyle than occasion, yet here Magliano’s take felt thankfully much more natural and in-line with his visual handwriting. So, washed-down almost muddy tones with clever layering provided a casual iteration of the Magliano brand, where a sweatshirt became a makeshift skirt worn over slimline jersey sweatpants. This was also a clever commentary on the current state of chaos and the need to provide a place of refuge from excess.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
The idea of fashion appearing to lose its magic can be attributed to the lack of attention young brands who have a unique viewpoint on a centuries-old industry are afforded. Luca Magliano is a name to invest in, not only for the fact that he has earned his place on the Milan Men’s schedule, with next year marking a decade since he launched his namesake, it’s a lesson in resilience for any young graduates hoping to follow in his path. From a Pitti Uomo debut to an LVMH Prize nod, he has navigated the changes wrought on the industry by re-envisioning workwear as lived-in and lovingly-worn, could this be the future of Italian menswear? We certainly hope so.
