Dunhill Refines Its Outlook on Informal Formality
Review of Dunhill Fall 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
English Classics, Crafted Casual, Refined Formality
As the world has gradually witnessed a shift towards a more conservative mindset, brands who have always championed the concept of a structured and uniform way of mens dressing – which typically revolves around the suit as the foundation of any accomplished mans wardrobe – are starting to make waves among the fashion crowd.
As Dunhill presented its latest collection during Milan fashion week it is likely to be viewed through the eyes of a world which is rapidly changing (some might even go so far as to say regressing) as we speak, as those who operate at the upper echelons of society have had their traditions, values, and aesthetics mimicked under the banner of ‘Quiet Luxury’. In light of this new era brands such as Dunhill are certain to find new fans globally, as men (especially those who never quite got on board with streetwear, were unable to figure out how to get the smart casual formula right, or who were left confused by the rise gender-fluid dressing) return to a traditional idea of dressing that will feel at once familiar and in many ways safe ground. It also no surprise that this coincides with King Charles namesake ancestor introducing the three-piece suit in the 17th century, as he himself sits on the throne.
The Dunhill customer is one who has always been there – since the brands founding in 1893 – and as with every other iteration of the luxury customer, the man who wishes to dress like a well-heeled gentleman has every right to have his needs catered too as well. So, in his latest collection Creative Director Simon Holloway took the theme of English Classicism to dapper new heights as each sharp-suited look offered up a myriad of options for the lifestyle pursuits of the consumer that operates at the highest level of society. Structure was married with a softer, casual element as plaid tailoring, smoking jackets, tweed overcoats and velvet slippers were mirrored with corduroy pants, shearling aviator jackets, and ribbed sweaters for when the occasion arises for dressing down and which the show notes refereed to as “informal formality”.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
The fresh faces who walked the Dunhill collection provided a glimpse into how this new chapter of the Dunhill brand is pivoting, while maintaining its heritage of classic English elegance and adding in elements of modernity (if securing Lucky Blue Smith to walk the show is any indication )Holloway is making the case for a brand that is sure to find a new audience as traditional values gain traction with a younger generation.
