In Pursuit of Clothes to Live Multiple Lives In at Alessandro Sartori’s Zegna
Review of Zegna Fall 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Man and Nature, Unexpected Innovation, Modern Mythical
The Italian fashion house of Zegna knows how to spin each seasons inspiration into a storytelling yarn which links past to present, and as yarns of the wool variety were the bedrock of founder Ermenegildo Zegna’s vision to achieve excellence in craft-making it makes sense that wool is the focus for fall.
Emerging into todays show-space guests were transported to a grassy meadow where – if not for the fact it was central Milan – could have been a landscape where sheep would have roamed. As it so happened sheep were present on set, albeit via an audio/visual medium as a video of a herd of sheep played on a mesmerising loop prior to the shows start. Todays notes provided further explanation, although those familiar with the brand will be aware of the importance of the foundations of each collection I.e. the materials which make up the clothes that were to be presented, from cashmere to wool. It’s also a reminder of the process that clothing goes through to make it to the shelves at retail, a process which often starts from nature, at the luxury level of the market at least. And in said notes there was once again that reoccurring theme from this Mens season so far, that of man and his relationship with nature – “The soft hills covered in the greenest grass upon which the models meander recall the greenery and the scale of the Australian landscapes, their sinuous lines a symbol of continuity between man and nature”.
The rolling hills of todays show were also in reference to the founders link with Australia where he established the ‘Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Trophy Awards’ in order to support woolgrowers to nurture and sustain their craft. In this pursuit of excellence through the establishment of this prize ‘Vellus Aureum’ was born. Derived from the mythical Greek tale of the ‘Golden Fleece’ the founder sought to raise wool to the status of the extraordinary, achieving that feat in 2023, 60 years after the prize was launched, with a world record title for “a single wool fleece…with a fineness of 9.4 microns.”
Wool is not always heralded for its innovative properties, yet it boasts two industry-leading prizes (both the Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Trophy Awards and the International Woolmark Prize) and a number of unsung natural innovations embedded in its fibres, from breathability, to stain-resistance, and an ability to react to the wearers body temperature keeping them both warm and cool. Add to that it is both biodegradable and renewable and the passion and commitment for wool that was held by Zegna’s founder becomes increasingly obvious.
In pursuing this legacy of innovation and continuity of craftsmanship Zegna’s Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori’s aim for this collection was to seek out new ways of wearing, while finding new meaning in what has gone before. This meant that for this chapter there was a look back to the founders original wardrobe and how he dressed, so each piece in the collection was imbued with an emotional connection. Giving a fresh perspective to familiar silhouettes there were slouchy wide-leg pants that were worn high on the waist, blousons given a softly exaggerated shape, necklines constructed with a purposely low-V to showcase double-layered shirts, and washed techniques applied to give the effect of the garment having lived a second life. Each look played its part in Sartori’s mission to “give a new meaning to what has been done, to explore a moment of the story and evolve the whole of it.”
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
The man I have in mind has raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades, for their emotional and material value. Working with washed wools
and Vellus Aureum (Golden Fleece) we have been able to transfer lived life into the garments.Alessandro Sartori, Artistic Director, Zegna
THE WRAP UP
Often overlooked, yet inherently valuable – especially in todays society and the wider industry as a whole that is struggling to tackle its environmental footprint – wool offers a way for brands to wean themselves off the prolific use of synthetics. Heralding wool as a material of great versatility and natural innovation is a step forward, and as Sartori’s collection can attest, this most humble of materials can be spun and weaved into some of the most desirable luxury items in the market, with an ingrained longevity and reduced impact.
From relaxed suiting to practical outerwear, unexpected double-collar details and everyday layers with a slouchy attitude, this modern take on an extraordinary material will continue to add a substantive spin to a “fine transgenerational family thread”.
