Putting a Bow on the Interim Era
Review of Chanel Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Archival homage. House icons. Looking forward.
Hopefully Chanel’s final collection before its long-awaited new creative director takes over, Fall 2025 was both the strongest interim collection yet and another reminder that Matthieu Blazy has his work cut out for him.
Continuing its practice of playing close to the archive, the collection centered around three core house motifs – bows, tweed, and pearls – sometimes finding was to evolve them, and sometimes falling back onto overt repetition.
The opening looks played with layering and duality, combing two classic Chanel silhouettes by layering long sheer dresses over short tweed sets. That new layering of familiar Chanel vocabulary returned later in the tweed sets that featured a jacket worn with both a skirt and pants, while the sheer fabrication found another expression in gradient sets that saw denim give way to chiffon.
Accessories were where the collection shone the most, and evinced the most excitement about taking the house’s code forward. One particularly memorable cross-body bag took the form of an oversized string of pearls (a Chanel signature), while the motif was picked up in a handbag that was essentially a single giant pearl with a silver handle. Micro bags were particularly cute and chic, while familiar classics were updated with new materials and textures.
But these glimmers of excitement also threw the ways that the house is still lagging into sharper relief. The clarity of smart design ideas was often obscured by over-styling or over-designing: very few looks actually need five necklaces, seven bows, ruffles, gilded trim, and crystal buttons. The same goes for the craftsmanship; rather than serving to amplify the mastery of the Métiers d’art, having so many voices working at the same time drowns it out.
THE DIRECTION
The Grand Palais was adorned with a single monumental set piece, a fluidly spiraling shape that echoed the black ribbons which featured prominently in the collection. Something of that simplicity and clarity would have been nice to see more fully in the collection, but it was also a reminder by contrast of Karl Lagerfeld’s immersive and over-the-top set designs. This is one more area where Blazy will hopefully serve to guide the story of the house forward.
THE WRAP UP
Perhaps more than anything, the collection is a confirmation of the skill and passion of Chanel’s design team, and there were glimpses where this energy was taken in fresh new directions. But the problems that affect any studio without a driving creative vision are further exacerbated by the brand’s apparent unwillingness to take the kind of creative risks that will spark desire in next-generation and returning customers alike.
Blazy will certainly approach his new appointment with clarity, consistency, and a progressive vision – but will the house give him the space to truly take it forward? We hope so.
