A Grown-Up Take on Girlish Rebellion
Review of Miu Miu Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Radical Femininity, Body as Statement, & Youthful Rebellion
Miu Miu has always revolved around playful subversion—taking youthful or traditionally “girlish” motifs and twisting them into something sharper, more unexpected. For Fall 2025, Miuccia Prada leaned into that familiar territory but with a more sculptural, introspective approach. The collection wasn’t just about dressing the body—it was about reshaping it. Garments were designed to curve and contour, bras became architectural statements rather than mere lingerie, and tailoring was manipulated to fold, shift, and collapse, revealing and concealing in equal measure. It was an examination of femininity as both form and force, exploring how it can be defined, exaggerated, or even abstracted through clothing.
There was a tension between structure and sensuality—undergarments became outerwear, with bras acting as sculptural markers of the body’s shape, while satin slips and pointelle knits added a layer of intimacy. Protruding nipples built into tops felt like a direct commentary on the body as both a personal and social statement, while outerwear maintained Miu Miu’s signature offbeat charm: plush fur stoles, cropped jackets, and voluminous coats added a sense of grandeur to the otherwise delicate silhouettes. Accessories, too, reinforced the theme—brooches, bracelets, and necklaces weren’t just adornments but bold declarations of femininity, repeated and amplified to command attention.
Miu Miu has long had an eye for casting, selecting faces that feel less like traditional runway models and more like characters in a larger cultural narrative. This season was no exception, with a lineup that blurred the lines between fashion, film, and music. Gigi Hadid and Raffey Cassidy walked alongside actress Sarah Paulson, while cult teen rapper Nettspend and rising star Cortisa Star made their high-fashion debuts in custom Miu Miu looks. The mix of established talent and unconventional newcomers underscored the brand’s ongoing dialogue with youth culture, cinematic storytelling, and the evolving definitions of beauty and influence.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
“All the girls are excited—it’s like a new fashion. The collection was about femininity and the idea of doing femininity in this difficult moment to lift us up… We wanted the clothing to help in difficult moments, during really dangerous times, war times. There is a sense of tension and anxiety today, and of fear. This season, we really wanted to create an elegance with nothing—through the everyday, through direct manipulations of simple pieces… These are combined with bold gestures of the feminine—jewels, furs—that elevate, that give importance and value and complexity to every look.”
THE WRAP UP
While the collection stayed within Miu Miu’s established codes—decade-mixing, high-low layering, and schoolgirl undertones—it felt more refined in its execution. The hemlines weren’t exclusively micro-mini, offering a broader spectrum of silhouettes, and the styling felt more considered, less reliant on shock value. The interplay of earthy neutrals and pops of bright color continued the brand’s signature contrasts, while textures—silk, wool, faux fur—created a dialogue between softness and strength.
At its core, this collection proposed that embracing an unapologetically feminine aesthetic—one shaped by women, for themselves—can be its own form of power. By amplifying softness, lingerie details, and ornamentation, Miu Miu reinforced the idea that femininity doesn’t need to be stripped down or reworked to command attention; it holds strength on its own terms.
Yet, as much as this collection reinforced Miu Miu’s DNA, it also raised a question: How does the brand continue to evolve when its formula is so well established? The bras and lingerie-inspired pieces will undoubtedly resonate with consumers, offering instant commercial appeal, but does the collection as a whole feel like a step forward, or simply another iteration of what we already know? The show notes described the collection as “a study of form,” an exploration of how femininity is shaped and signified through dress. The result was both deliberate and deeply Miu Miu—but in a house built on reinvention, the next challenge is to find new ways to surprise.
