Making Light Work of (Sweltering) Summer Dressing
Review of Pronounce Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Flying High, light work, colour transition, buildable wardrobe
Milan, like the rest of Europe is officially in heatwave season. Sweltering temperatures reaching into the 90’s had many praying that every show venue came fitted with air conditioning, this editor included.
Pre-season the dilemma of what to pack for a week of shows, faced by those who descend on both Milan and Paris in June, was resolved by Pronounce, whose spring 2026 collection made literal light work of summer dressing.
Just shy of their 10-year anniversary in the business, designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou found themselves sourcing a lighter reference material. Revealing backstage that “Traditional Chinese kite” were the inspiration, using them much in the way they were throughout Chinese history – from helping armies measure long distances to providing weather readings. And as the designers talked about turning the kite into a formula, it wouldn’t be a stretch to consider the bamboo frame of the kite being reflected as both the collections tonal tailoring and sturdy workwear (updated with a high crop for the jackets and low-slung waist for the pants, exposing a sliver of midriff), while the painted silk forming the body of the kite reimagined in parachute silk billowing around the models bodies, when not caught in folds and gathered at the back.
There was a level of knowing to the styling that would compel anyone viewing the collection in its entirety to purchase looks as they were styled on the runway. The use of perfectly blended tones of light khaki (trouser, shirt, and trench), a triple-layer skirt in vegetal shades and a mix of solid and sheer, alongside a navel-grazing suede vest set against a voluminous silk parka and pants kept this new phase on solid ground. And following in the footsteps of Balenciaga, trash bags became treasure as they (or a nylon mimicking the material) were remade into a wipe-clean cagoule trimmed with pastel-toned cuffs, a silhouette which felt innovative rather than gimmicky.
This was another brand who had taken to lightening up, both design-wise and to reflect the season. Where previously there was a heavier worked-into crafted look, with sweaters scattered with XL dragonfly fringing or crustacean covered satin shirts, as well as their signature rope motif, today the designers presented a beautiful cohesion of colours and contrasting fabrics, which they described as “…perfect for this moment. It’s really hot, so I think that some of these fabrications will be really beautiful for the summer season”.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
The inspiration was from the traditional Chinese kite…and how to make the Chinese kite the formula was really inspiring. And also some of the heavier colours at the end represent some of the challenges in the weather as well as representing life as a human.
Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, founders and creative directors Pronounce
THE WRAP UP
As one of their strongest collections to date, the design duo took a traditional symbol from their heritage and broke it down into its basic parts, as w way to enable them to expand on how it could translate for their summer season, and so it was in the layering of sheer silk fabrications which represented the silks used in the kites that the team were able to give us a collection that met the moment, both figuratively and literally. With temperatures in the summer predicted to continue hitting record-breaking highs, the industry will have to adapt, and with this aerated collection the Pronounce team are making light work of the challenge.
