The Desire for Change
Review of Saint Laurent Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Seeking sensuality, restrained escapism, courage over continuity
Not so much separating the art from the artist, Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent was a merging of two creative expressions.
Similar to his counterparts and the houses’ founder, Anthony Vaccarello chose to align with the art world for next spring (see also Louis Vuitton Men’s). Seeking to perhaps elevate the collection, the setting of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection museum, and the artwork around which the models walked inadvertently exuded a different kind of symbolism. For as much as the creative director may have wanted to convey a sense of serenity preceding the show, with French artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s expansive work of porcelain bowls gently gliding over a pool of water, gently clanging as they collided, the title of the piece – ‘Clinamen’, representing unpredictability of atoms – only served to highlight the opposite, in the predictable nature of what we have come to expect from a Saint Laurent mens show. Referred to as ‘continuity’ in today’s notes, it successfully came through in the strong shouders, cinched waists, and lean silhouettes, yet what was needed was a more evolutionary take after several seasons of repetition.
We’ve seen this language of elongated silhouettes and soft-focus sensuality before, and Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent man, once a refreshing contradiction to traditional masculine tropes, now feels stuck in its own algorithm.
Where credit is due is in the fact he never fails to deliver an expertly contrasted collection, thanks in no part to a seasoned atelier, the precise tailoring and refined materials are qualities recognisable at 30 paces.
Yet, there was a desire and a sensuality found in today’s notes which were only tackled with a light touch. As even though the notions of queer longing and hedonistic freedom were to be found on the brands instagram account, in the form of an excerpt of the 1975 film ‘ Fire Island’ by artist Larry Stanton – read glistening bronzed bodies and the most minuscule of swim trunks – this merely manifested in sheer silk blouses and technical nylon shirts that were more poetic and less soft-porn, which is what the visuals had teased. The choice of inspiration spoke to unbridled freedom, and had this been pushed further within the collection could we have seen a relaxing of the house codes, and gotten the Saint Laurent man in Saint Tropez, or Fire Island itself? Something which would have made for a much-needed departure from the status quo, which felt – quite literally – business (suit) as per usual.
Vaccarello has undoubtedly defined his Saint Laurent man well, but is a newer iteration, even if it is a slight deviation from the current soft power play, what is needed next season? As if ambiguity can become elegance then it can also loosen its ties, strip back the formality, and take a much needed vacation.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Anthony Vaccarello has a steady hand when it comes to the visual identity he’s built at Saint Laurent. But consistency should also be challenged if he wants to maintain desirability. The challenge now is not to perfect the silhouette, but to evolve it to align with the shifts being felt within the menswear market, even within the context of luxury, as rapidly changing views on proportion, queerness, vulnerability, and volume are what will shape its future.
