Designers and advocates push back against development that could displace workers and small businesses
On Wednesday afternoon, a stretch of Manhattan’s Garment District became more than a neighborhood, it became a battleground. Designers, artisans, preservationists, and advocates gathered on the sidewalks not just to rally against New York City’s proposed Midtown South rezoning plan, but to preserve a living ecosystem that powers fashion, theater, and culture at large.
Among the 150-plus in attendance were CFDA President and CEO Steven Kolb, designers Yeohlee Teng and Bach Mai, and voices from organizations including the Historic Districts Council, IATSE, Custom Collaborative, and the New York Landmarks Conservancy. All fighting under the same cause: Growth does not require erasure.
The proposal in question—part of Mayor Eric Adams’ “City of Yes” initiative—seeks to rezone 30 blocks stretching from West 23rd to West 40th Streets to allow for high-density residential housing. But in doing so, the plan risks displacing over 5,000 workers and hundreds of small, often immigrant- and women-owned businesses that define the Garment District’s DNA.
Frampton Tolbert, Executive Director of the Historic Districts Council, was among the first to speak. “This does not work for anyone,” he said. “We want housing and jobs.” What the crowd heard next was a series of arguments not against change—but against unchecked development that prioritizes condos over culture.
Kolb underscored the Garment District’s role as a global engine: “Fashion employs more than 180,000 New Yorkers and generates $11 billion in wages. It’s not just about runways—it’s design, manufacturing, logistics, and identity.” He reminded the crowd that while names like Oscar de la Renta and Thom Browne began here, today’s talents—like Kallmeyer and Bach Mai—still rely on the very infrastructure now at risk.
For glove-maker Katie Sue Nicklos of Wing & Weft, whose atelier crafted pieces worn by every First Lady and graced countless Met Galas, the issue is tactile: “Without these spaces, I can’t make gloves the way I’ve been taught. Everything we need—clients, collaborators, materials—is within walking distance.”
Peg Breen of the Landmarks Conservancy warned that this rezoning isn’t a pla, it’s a gamble. “We are not going to get the city we want to live in,” she said. Costume designer Deirdra Govan put it bluntly: “If we lose this, productions will go elsewhere. And they will take jobs, local spending, and city revenue with them.”
The rally ended not in despair, but with a charge. Organizers encouraged attendees to contact City Council members and push for a balanced, inclusive plan, one that supports housing while honoring heritage, one that doesn’t demolish legacy in the name of development. Because in the Garment District, it’s never just about the clothes. It’s about who makes them, and what we stand to lose when we stop paying attention.
