An Homage to the Human-Made
Review of Tod’s Spring 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Patchwork Perfection, Human-made and Crafted, Eye-catching Details
How can luxury repair itself? As in repair its reputation for quality and craftsmanship which has been damaged from revelations of the inner workings of production facilities and the true cost of make, in comparison to the RRP.
The reactionary nature of the industry, in the face of constantly shifting consumer behaviours, has been to chase trends, hike prices, and partner with everything from sports to beach clubs in the hopes of turning on the faucet to an untapped revenue stream unaffected by the downturn in luxury fashion.
A quick unscientific straw poll might reveal that the human touch is missing from the market, with very few cracking the community code – speaking to and bringing together aspiring customers, current customers, and fans – to effectively unlock an authentic level of engagement money can’t buy. The humanity behind the house is something which creative director Matteo Tamburini has recognised needs to be the story told at every touchpoint. Which is why the journey of each show begins with a worktable filled with artisans demonstrating how the brands popular Gommino loafer is made, upon entering the showspace you can see what sets them apart. This assembly-line always draws a crowd, with a ‘Meet the Makers’ approach showing the emphasis placed on the process. Automation, not an option.
In an Instagram teaser ahead of today’s show titled ‘Make Your Mark’, the brand reiterated how their iconic designs have come together since 1920, through ‘meticulous craft’ and the mastery of the artisanal. Spring 2026 was another season of elegantly crafted leatherwork – Tods ‘material par excellence’ – but what felt new was the moulding and twisting of leather and suede, as the designer manipulated it into linear patchwork, twists and knots, demonstrating the skill of artisans to bend even the most undulating of materials to their will. Hanky hem halters were knotted at the back as if light as shirting, and speaking of shirting one yellow and one blue button-down shirt featured white contrast stripes, but not in a classic print! Instead we were treated to stripes cut in white leather and expertly applied as an all graphic pattern. And when those looks debuted there was a collective lean in by more than a few editors to make sure the magic they were witnessing was not just a slight of hand. We would like more of this innovative use of the atelier for your leatherwork in the future Mr Tamburini.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
If this is only a small sample of what Tamburini has in store for his time as creative director then Tod’s will have no problem maintaining its status as experts in the handcrafted, creating light-work of the complex expertise that communicates just what it means to be backed by the best hands in the business.
