In Cruise Control
Review of Ferrari Spring 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Pared-back Precision, Heightened Emotions, Sculptural Fluidity
In another play for soft power, Rocco Lannone put the brakes on and switched to cruise control, as dynamism was dialled down to make space for simplicity.
Reduction is not a phrase that immediately comes to mind in relation to Ferrari, sleek designs, a signature bold colour, and power would be more appropriate, and not since his spring 2024 collection have we seen the designer express a softer side for the brand.
The stark white revamp of the show-space should have been the first indication that what was on the mind of the designer was a filtering down and paring back of his ideas, to – as the notes stated – focus on form and function. ‘Bringing Fashion back to its mission and meaning’ was the focus for next season, heightening emotions by applying the same to the materials and ‘glorifying matter’ as per the notes.
This change in direction was a smooth transition for the creative director, with the raw-edged utility looks in silk canvas promoting an avenue of evolution for the brand. This alongside the draped bouclé knit section communicated clearly the designers desire to condense. The acid-etched denim needed to push for more differentiation as there are at least a dozen Italian brands playing in the same arena, while the ‘rusty’ airbrushed knits reflected the sort of creative ideas which were cultivated in the faux laboratory space developed for the show.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Today’s notes talked up the need to edit, choose, and decide, and by pulling back Lannone had to dig deep to consider what he would hold onto, so gone were the sharp shoulders and slick silhouettes mimicking the curved lines of the ‘Spyder’ model and starting with a blank canvas, in, was a ‘clothing system’ of consolidated ideas as concise as they were unconventional.
