Jazz Age Design, Decadently Distilled at Ferragamo
Review of Ferragamo Spring 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Distilled Decadance, Liberated Elegance, Freedom of Self Expression, Reinterpreted Africana
Founded in 1927, for spring Maximilian Davis took to the Ferragamo archives to again explore with fresh eyes, the house he has headed up for the past three years .
A striking 1925 image of silent film star Lola Todd decked in head-to-toe leopard, from her (Salvatore designed) pumps to her stockings and fur stole, with the look completed with a baby leopard by her side, acting as the prompt the designer needed to deep dive into the “Africana movement of the jazz age” as outlined in todays notes. During this period African Americans in the US were migrating in significant numbers to cities in the North, as a way to escape the Jim Crow laws of the South, and to experience a new kind of freedom. Sparking the cultural phenomenon that was the Harlem Renaissance, interest in African art and textiles was heightened, with the use of fur and animal prints becoming widespread (which in some cases saw it become exoticized, rather than fully appreciated).
Davis’ interest in the Africana movement, to inform his collection, was reflected in today’s notes “I was interested in how certain materials, prints and textiles were imported from across Africa and the Caribbean into America and Europe to become a sign of status.” And without a doubt his own roots in the Caribbean would have brought further nuance and depth to the theme. A trait the designer has mastered is in not taking his research and references too literally, so as to not fall into the trap of pastiche. The reframing of the Africana movement for modern women was in the presentation of a ‘liberated elegance’. Those aforementioned animal prints were barely recognisable from an obvious perspective, ‘distilled’ and camouflaged as they were into silk satin devoré and re-coloured into acid greens on chocolate browns, or red leopard paired back with polka dots. Since this was the jazz era, there were of course dropped waists and lingerie dressing, but here they presented as a liberating celebration of freedom in the way the removal of formal structure allows for unrestricted movement. As Davis explained “This was a moment where women were creating a new femininity – it was a celebration of freedom, a reclaiming of self.” The louche tailoring with hip-slung satin scarf sashes, reinterpreting the Zoot suits of the day, were almost identical across the male and female models and were an example of the rebelling against societal norms highlighted in the notes. The two-tone spectator shoe revamped in patent leather with the sculptural ‘S’ heel and a Gancini hardware chains took the spirit of the Jazz Age and modernised it through Davis’ exacting lens, and are an exciting addition to the family of Ferragamo accessories.
In amongst the Jazz age splendour were a number of forays into the casual arena, something we haven’t truly seen the young designer develop as yet – being so adept in formal dress codes as he is – but the lifestyle based, almost preppy looks were the perfect accompaniment to the decadence on display. Inspired by cartoonist John Held Jr’s Life Magazine covers from the 1920s, the saturated colours provided the perfect reference. The pleat front tapered pants will appeal across the aisle, with the colour-blocked shirts (and contrast leather ties) and garment washed jackets an indication of Davis’ way with colour harmonies, pulled from Held Jr’s work, but also akin to that seen at Prada and Fendi this week. It would be a treat to have the designer deep dive further into this area, with a possible collaboration or capsule, as playing outside of the box could further expand the brands reach.
The financial performance of the company is sure to weigh heavy on Davis’ shoulders, but in the wider context market conditions have never been more difficult i.e. the recently imposed tariffs from the U.S. and low consumer sentiment. Their turnaround plan – announced as a focus on its core leather goods offering – will take time to show promise, but you only have to consider the last few years of volatility for Burberry as a comparison to hold fast and commit to said plan and creative direction.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
This is a movement which I feel connected with, as it was when people were rebelling against society, creating their own spaces such as speakeasy’s, and dressing for themselves – especially women.
Maximilian Davis, Creative Director, Ferragamo
THE WRAP UP
Delving into the 1920s, especially the jazz age can result in a rehashing of the typical flapper dress silhouette, with intricate beadwork and embroidery creating costume-style looks, but Davis being Davis looked past the obvious references to reconfigure the era, telling The Impression backstage “The normal direction to go in when you look at flappers and the 1920s is embroidery, and I wanted to stay away from that, so I pictured the women and men at home in their pyjamas, in their robes, in their satins”, and that was the key takeaway of this collection the freedom and ‘reclaiming of self’ through clothing which was happening during the Harlem Renaissance, and is still just as relevant today. Throughout this season so far freedom and dressing for ones self remains the driving force for spring 2026.
