When Simplicity Says It Best
Review of Auralee Fall 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Referred to as ‘Pure Silhouettes’ Auralee’s Ryota Iwai knows how to create collections for easy living, with colours that compliment so effortlessly putting together a forever wardrobe becomes a game as simple as paint-by-numbers. At a time when our discretionary spend has to feel justified Auralee’s collections feel like a smart investment in the future of fashion.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Intelligent Colour Theory, From Runway to Wardrobe, More Than Basics
Why does it feel like a betrayal to admit to wanting uncomplicated clothes. Clothes that are not fed to you by an algorithm that deems whatever cut of jean as this week’s style we should ‘obsess’ over. Yet, there are clothes which lean into simplicity and don’t find themselves lacking when it comes to their style credentials, and it in that space is where Auralee plays.
Recognising that dressing well doesn’t have to be a team sport Iwati has developed a cognitive understanding of how to create a yearning for even the simplest of silhouettes. Through his use of colour as his main medium of communication, the outerwear, accessories and knits bursting with primary brights could easily become the building blocks for a forever wardrobe. Seeing as you would want to buy each piece in every colour it comes in.
References to the colour theory of Bauhaus, the childlike past-time of building with lego bricks, or the residential lofts built by Arakawa and Madeline Gins called ‘The Reversible Destiny Lofts’ which proudly stand-out from the landscape of a Tokyo suburb show how colour can be ‘stacked’ and composed to please the eye. The shows intro (and closing looks for that matter as a few of Iwai’s finales have often featured a section dedicated to the colour black) bet on buttermilks and beiges to soothe, but this wasn’t about minimalism as chunky cords and chubby furs lining cropped bombers proved. More often associated with the summer season, the designer thought ‘why not?’ to the use of semi-sheers across outerwear and shirts. Creating a way to veil or blend colours together, he styled a yellow shirt and pea green trench that worked with a suitably wintry check scarf that picked up on the same colours, yet worked perfectly. Denim came creased at the front riffing on the subtle 80s/90s undertone that accompanied this seasons show. This could also be seen in the cropped puffer bomber jackets and oversized ‘Dad’ coats – nostalgic in combination of red and blue, yellow and red, purple and teal, or blue and purple.
It won’t have gone unnoticed to those who care to source beyond their local department store, but what Ryota Iwai is crafting at Auralee could rival many of the major houses and independent labels who have become ubiquitous at the top of those annual ’Hottest Brands’ lists. Yet, here his no logo, colour-led approach has garnered clothes that provide an effortless way to build a daily sense of self.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Ryota Iwai has mastered the art of ‘Desirable Simplicity’ with his brand Auralee. Everything presented for Fall 2026 could walk off the runway and right into your wardrobe, as Iwai’s symphony of colours work harmoniously together – sheer blues over textured sage knits – and will compel the wearer to buy each garment in every colour, If only to replicate his logic.
This season felt like an retro re-run without a hint of sentimentality, taking the best of the past and filtering it down to make it right for now.
