The Comfort Of New Beginnings
Review of Dries Van Noten Fall 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Coming of Age at a simpler time – the Victorian era to be exact – was what inspired the now-settled Dries Van Noten creative director Julian Klausner for his second men’s collection. It may seem as if the designer has achieved the near impossible, but in just a few short seasons Klausner may just have topped his first mens showing. Presenting a collection that felt within reach of perfectly capturing the essence of the house.
Today, the transition “between being a teenager, becoming an adult, leaving home, packing your bags with the things you love” as Klausner told The Impression, was a theme which felt right for exploration at a time when the world itself is searching for a new beginning, while holding onto the comfort of the familiar.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
An Academic Adolescence, Knit Is King, Boldly Does It
The designers use of jacquard knits, print mixing and harmonious colourful layering felt comfortingly familiar, and it was that exact emotion that Klausner wanted to illicit from the viewer for fall 2026. The knitwear especially was a particular focus for the designer, for the way in which a beloved sweater can spark precious memories or provide a moment of comfort and safety, especially when navigating the highs and lows of adolescence. Speaking to The Impression he expanded on this notion with “[There is] a lot of knitwear. I think with this idea of leaving the nest, of coming of age, it’s a special moment for me and knitwear has something so comforting. I like to wear knitwear. I think it’s a special feeling when you have your favourite sweater that you can put on. You know, you feel protected.” This emotional connection could be felt throughout the collection in the designers generous use of the category. It came patterned, striped, patchworked, and blocked. In grandad vests, warm-weather sets complete with long johns (“Jersey just has this resonance of something comfortable, something you want to lounge in, something you want to stay in.” he said), chunky fair isle sweaters and matching hats. All provided layers and levels of comfort.
The collection also had a school boyish charm to it, with the designer pinpointing the Victorian era as a time of interest for it’s significance as a time of educational enlightenment “I was thinking of something studious. there was something in the air about wanting to educate, keeping an open eye. There was a slight Victorian undertone, as the era was so symbolic, of learning [think of] Darwin’s theory, and education, public education.” Pleated culottes and miliary-style jackets gave off that uniform undertone the designer was channeling, as did the capes – with knitted collars, in grey marl jersey, and embroidered in a mini version on double-breasted wool coats.
Providing comfort, in various forms of cosy layers that you love to wear everyday was also a point that resonated personally for the designer. Noting the way the brand is beloved amongst its many fans who profess their love for all who will listen, he explained “It’s the biggest compliment as a designer when you hear that someone has their Dries coat or their Dries pants that they’ve been wearing for years and years. So I was thinking about, you know, how can these pieces that you have, these pieces that bring you comfort? How can you combine them?”
Creating a number of ways to layer and combine each pieces of the collection for next fall, there was a need to cover the theme across a range of categories. Proposing a selection of wardrobe stapes done in the Dries way, each garment conveyed the feeling of being embraced. Manifesting in the patchwork quilted coats which would have been made from a dozen childhood quilts lovingly stitched together and holding that ‘family heritage in one piece’ Klausner spoke to.
The balance of the collection was an ‘exploration of self-expression’ according to the notes, yet the rich juxtaposition of piling on contrasting patterns and palettes was so very Dries. New silhouettes were suggested as archetypal shapes were freed from their boundaries. In doing so, the designer proposed an update of the paperbag silhouette fusing two opposing patterns of paisleys, checks and florals. Another innovation to add to the roster of trouser updates seen across fall 2026.
The intuitive brights selected as the palette for the season felt hopeful, and in contrast to the monotony of greys and neutral tones that have dominated. Klausner called them his ‘Fruitella Pastels, explaining “I wanted something a little bit naive in the colours, so there’s a little section in the show where you have this Fruitella orange, Fruitella pink, as something a little bit playful.” Stitched into chunky knits, satin-trimmed blazers, mustard floral technical parkas, and lounge-worthy long johns, no style was left untouched so brand faithfuls will be fully catered to next season.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Knits are an important part of the house for me, and it’s been a moment since we’ve done a strong knit message in the show. I really wanted to put that forward, you know, some of our team members in the knit team have been there for 30 years, so they’re really the original designers who worked on all the Dries knits. It has been a huge privilege for me to have their knowledge, their experiences. And we really had a lot of fun with it.
Julian Klausner, Creative Director, Dries Van Noten
THE WRAP UP
In only four short seasons Julian Klausner has made the house of Dries Van Noten his home. Finding his own level of comfort, as he himself transitioned in his roles at the brand. So, it seemed appropriate that the designer would take to the idea of ‘Coming of Age’ and spin it out into a collection that helped him to experiment and come ‘out of his comfort zone’, with exceptional results.
Without even being aware of it, todays collection will be bought as intended, but with the added undertone of collecting something of significance, buying a souvenir from a new era, that still feels comfortingly familiar.
