Resisting Formalities
Review of Junya Watanabe Fall 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Affectionately known as Comme des Garçons day (unofficially) during fashion week, the two giants of Japanese design who bookend the day, were called upon – as they often are time-and-again – to keep the flag of fearless fashion flying.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Hybrid Working, Reframed Formality
In exploring beyond the idea of dressing up or getting dressed Junya Watanabe took the idea of where formality should live today for a walk. Traditional tropes of mens tailoring, top hats, tuxedos, and even uniforms (from school to naval) were pulled apart and reconstructed to create Fall 2026. A range of justifications have been pulled upon to justify a return to conservative dressing values. Values which set men apart in wider society as the bread winners. This crudely leaves a narrow window for only the most commercial or standardised ideas to slip though which constitutes a three-piece suit, preferable in grey. Here, instead they were nudged into welcoming in something new.
Today, Junya Watanabe blew open the door, heavy with the weight of expectation placed upon men as to how they should dress. The tuxedo jacket has been held up as the ultimate embodiment of refined dressing for men in the West. And one of the few opportunities for them to get dressed ‘to the nines’ was when opting for a tuxedo. For fall 2026 the designers opening looks were not a straightforward proposition of a simple black suit – seen on many a runway so far this season – a reconstitution of the silhouette was proposed. Employing what has become a brand signature and completely rethinking what makes a suitable suiting foundation. Leather off-cuts in varying shapes were patchworked together in both black and white to great effect. Then followed a selection of style updates of the three-button blazer (mis-matched buttons) and topcoat (fuse it with a quilted jacket, which also worked for a biker jacket and maxi coat hybrid).
The re-thought formalwear was compelling enough as a stand-alone idea, but as each tailored remix was shown, it was revealed through subtle details that a number of collaborators were also on board for the experiment. The first partnership was spotted through its distinctive red tab i.e. Levi’s, barely visible on the chest pocket of an unlined jacket, it made the audience in attendance pay closer attention to each look to spot the giveaway details of the seasons partnerships. It wasn’t long after that a collegiate style uniform of chinos and a blazer were seen to have been embroidered with the distinctive brand codes of Stüssy. A not-so-subtle graphic print was fashioned onto the back of the blazer confirming the tie-up. Further along the line-up there were also New Balance sneakers and formal shoes by Trickers. This was an honest rethinking of how formalwear no longer has to sit within an archetypal framework.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
However you look at it, this season will be one that took a step back to a place of safety, where once there appeared to be true innovation in menswear breaking though.
The tailored suit though is ripe for reinvention and of course Junya Watanabe is the only one who could meet the task head-on.
