Clowning Around
Review of Jacquemus Fall 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Flexing the satirical comedy chops that made him a star on the rise when he first arrived on the scene in 2013 – and can be found in his surreal marketing campaigns which don’t take himself or his brand too seriously – teasers for today’s show also read like a series of comedy skits. Posted a week before, the television and cinema that shaped the life of a young Jacquemus in the 1980s and 1990s were a key influence in creating the five short films of guests both anticipating and unbothered about attending the ‘Le Palmier’ soirée, yet each dutifully turn up .
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
A Homecoming, Clowning Around, the Playfulness Needed Pushing
Titled ‘Le Palmier’ – both a palm tree in French and the preferred hairstyle of his daughter – the show was presented at the Musée Picasso in Paris (a homecoming for the designer who staged ‘La Bomba’ there in 2017) and reflected the playful side of his beginnings.
Known for his abstract art a quick search will unearth images of Picasso dressed as Popeye and the infamous tongue-in-cheek picture of him sitting at a dining table with bread rolls mimicking his hands that are hidden from sight. These references were to make for a collection with a non-chalant attitude at its core, and where in some places it reflected the whimsical stylings of his Fall 2016 collection (had the designer been privy to the viral 2016 throwback trend on Instagram and TikTok?) with its big coats, peplum hems and yes even a multi-coloured spot or two, in others there was an overt level of seriousness that took precedence.
Another Picasso – Pablo’s daughter, Paloma – and her indomitable style could also be seen throughout the collection. Her unapologetic sex appeal, striking features, and bold red lip would be able to pull off any look for fall 2026. Including the wide-brimmed hats that shrouded the models eyes and were a callback to a 1980 photograph of the jewellery designer by Roxanne Lowit. The closing look of a chest revealing asymmetric dress was also a facsimile of a Helmut Newton portrait from 1983. Even with a glass protecting the models modesty, these stunts don’t quite have the shock factor they once did, as a naked body on the runway is par for the course.
The archives were where Jacquemus invited us to indulge him. From the tulip-shaped shirt dresses to the bold shoulders, structured sets and paintbox brights. While silhouettes came back to the body after the trapeze-like volume that dominated spring 2026. His menswear also stayed close to the body and in keeping with the rest of the season, was focussed on tailoring. But there were flashes of brilliance in the suede utility jackets, mint green suit, and boxer shirts paired with a cummerbund and opera coat. The presence of the 1950s (couture-style pencil skirts and skirt suits) and 1980s (cocooning silhouettes and broad shoulders) were keenly felt, ironically representing a time when conservatism was also the dominant mindset. Today that severity was softened with exaggerated hips, suede suiting , fur textures, sensuous cut-outs and a childlike naivety channelled through tipped pyjamas, sheep props, and clown hats (Picasso also famously painted Pierrot ‘ The Sad Clown’).
An invoking of the designers early years should have yielded a much more abstract collection, especially as it took place at the Musée Picasso, but today felt as if it relied to much on the visual language of the 1950s and 80s, although we can expect the brand to turn it around with a satirical take in their fall 2026 marketing campaign.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
In some places this show reflected the whimsical stylings of his Fall 2016 collection (had the designer been privy to the viral 2016 throwback trend on Instagram and TikTok?) with its big coats, peplum hems, and yes even a multi-coloured spot or two”
THE WRAP UP
Structured dresses and the signature ‘Colour Pops and Dots (or stripes)’ featured heavily in silhouettes that flattered the form, referenced from the 1950s and 80s. The light-hearted moments spoken to in the teasers were there – windswept ties, polka dot boxer shorts, clown hats, and furry friends – but they felt like a missed opportunity to truly bring a satirical edge into the shows staging and the collection as a whole.
