Defying The Inclusivity Ice Age
Review of Karoline Vitto Fall 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
The few designers still casting their shows progressively are feeling more like outliers with every season that passes. As the broad range of body shapes once seen on the catwalks has shrunk back down to a singular – read skinnier – vision.
At a time when a pushback is needed now more than ever, Karoline Vitto returns with her celebration of all body shapes and sizes. Defying the growing trend that says those who inhabit them should remain on the sidelines. Not in Vittos world!!
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Boldly Embodying Every-body
As Karoline Vitto rightly pointed out in her show notes, the conversation and commitment around diverse body representation on the runways has all but frozen over.
The wholesale gutting of DEI initiatives and progressive attitudes towards a fairer fashion system (one that would more accurately represent all who partake in the pleasure of shopping) has led to a literal thinning out of models at fashion week. And with GLP-1 the new diet elixir, the front rows too.
As the designer opined it should not be left to a one or two outliers to do the heavy lifting, so the industry can pat itself on the back each season and point to these few (often emerging names) as signs of change. Because as the designer also stated, if she and her peers choose not to show for a season or two then no one picks up the mantle, and data around size inclusivity takes a sharp nosedive.
Yet, as with all social issues that are repackaged as trends, the brands who have always been intentional with their support, on and off the runway, will continue to do the work when others move on. And that is exactly what Karoline Vitto did with another strong collection that demonstrated how it should be done. Curves are nothing to be afraid of, and in the case of her brand, can even make clothes look infinitely better. Because guess what, this is how each look, in every collections shown each season will actually look once out in the real world. Since, try as they might, brands ultimately cannot control who buys their products.
Titling her collection ‘Thaw’ the designers use of draping throughout was meant as a metaphorical melting, while delicate crystal jewellery mimicked the dewy water droplets. Fall also took its cue from the 90s and 00s when the designer was coming of age. Acting as a physical manifestation of what she would have wished was available when navigating life as a teen. So, strappy tops and slinky cut-out dresses were reimagined for her customers, minus the ‘heroin chic’ glorified at the time. The functionality of the clothes also took on board the very real concern of her customers i.e the requirement that clothes have adaptability built into their construction. Fluctuations in body shape and size a reality that all can relate to. Embedded into her designs were hidden details such as zips, and also lacing with elastic cord rather than restrictive ties to style a shirt fitted or loose. Allowing for adjustments at whatever life stage her customers may find themselves.
As one of the few brands catering to this customer Vitto, in partnership with the BFC NEWGEN sponsor Pull & Bear, will make a portion of the collection see-now, buy-now extending the size offer for the retail store up to 2XL. This is the through-line of intentional accessibility that other brands should follow. As has been the case in the past when a single curve model will feature in a show (many times styled in a knit or jersey look) communicating that a brands collections are accessible to all. Only for customers to be met with disappointment when store buys don’t extend past a medium. This season saw a first foray into the menswear category with a set of looks encompassing relaxed sweats and a twisted take on a tailored suit whose hem was skewed with the designers signature metal trim. A promising start that could elude to the designer future ambitions – to tackle the need for representation during mens fashion week, we can only watch and wait in anticipation.
THE WRAP UP
Never wavering in her celebration of the curves she wished she saw when growing up, today’s show combined a mix of delicacy with practicality, and stretched her foundation of jersey fabrics into washed textures and worked-into wovens that added an additional layer of depth to her offer – cut-outs for day and adjustable layers for all.
Vittos return couldn’t have come at a more urgent time, as the number of designers featuring inclusive casting on their runways is being reduced down to the single digits. Yet, the brand continues to show the industry that women’s bodies should not be subject to fleeting trends, on the contrary they should be a permanent part of how fashion presents itself, and its ideals, to the world today.
