Interrupting the Algorithm
Review of Prada Fall 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Rethinking the runway format from a casting perspective is an under-explored area that rarely goes beyond the consideration of race or body shape. Yet, for their fall 2026 show Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons looked beyond their – always experimental and instagrammable – set designs to simplify and create a performance from a selection of only 15 models.
Following the entrance of the most unexpected front row guest of the season so far, i.e. Marc Zuckerberg (who took his seat minutes before the lights dimmed, but not before dozens of phones went up to capture the moment and speculate on the significance of his presence) the first 15 models padded with layers of chunky knitwear, sheer skirts, sports jackets, and heavy winter coats took their first lap around the runway.
It was only once Bella Hadid had made the rounds a third time that it clicked for the audience. There were a small number of models who were shedding their looks backstage and returning to the runway to reveal another facet of their character. Like the lives of modern women today the collection tackled the subject of their complexities, and in simplifying inevitable contradictions were revealed when peeling back the layers.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Peeling Back the Layers, Re-formatting the Runway
During their menswear fall 2026 show in January there was a literal shedding and decaying occurring throughout. Fabrics were peeling away on outerwear to reveal a print or pattern hidden underneath. Challenging the societal expectations around perfection and the rules around what constitutes good design through deliberately staining shirt collars and cuffs with ‘designer dirt’. For womenswear the clothes were deliberately ‘worn-in’ to convey a lived-in quality. As if the collection had been repurposed from vintage finds.
Less down and out than the menswear offering, here Raf Simons explained to The Impression backstage that the duo were thinking about hierarchy “we don’t want to make a hierarchy between high and low in terms of what the clothes are, whether they feel like, lived in and worn over a long time.” That women lead complex lives that require a multitude of wardrobe options, whether worn together or separately, an evening dress or a simple button-down, each garment served its purpose. Nothing is precious or saved for that special moment. Which is why, even the ornate embellishment of a shift dress was revealed only through gaping holes torn into the upper layers of fabric. Referring to this as “damaged embroidery” moments of minimalism and opulence were layered together, each serving an important role.
This contradictory way of layering draws attention to how our clothes evolve, according to the notes. Yet, in the world of Prada exploring everyday contradictions is nothing new. The creative directors have always played with convention, designing from the fringes, where the average designer is afraid to tread.
As the daily demands on women increase with every new role they inhabit, the pressure to do-it-all will require adaptive clothing. In quadrupling each of the 15 models looks Prada and Simons instilled their fall collection with a Russian-doll like adaptability to allow the wearer to redefine themselves through every layer peeled away, and by mixing casual and evening, sports and casual cosy the duo provided ‘endless possibilities’ for ‘expressions of living.’ Decoration is not exalted and the performative is not downplayed.
In light of the season’s theme and unexpected guest appearance conversations backstage inevitably turned towards politics. Prada offered that she had always “done politics” in her own way, through her collections, saying “I never did a suit that was offending to women.” There was also the acknowledgement that they were selling to the wealthy, those who could afford a €1200 polo shirt, as she said “we are designing for rich people, we are a company who does expensive clothes dressing rich people. You have to be aware.” And as designers who cater to a demographic that is pulling further away from everyday society it wouldn’t be right to be political. And that is another contradiction the duo will have to reconcile with in their work, especially if courting the likes of Zuckerberg which makes a political statement whether its explicitly spoken to or not.
THE QUOTE
As a woman your life is layered – each day demands not only a shifting of clothes, but a richness of identities within yourself. You make choices, you decide who you want to be, how you want to present yourself, adopting characters, redefining yourself.
Miuccia Prada, Co-Creative Director, Prada
THE WRAP UP
In peeling back layers – literally and thematically – Prada presented a Fall 2026 collection that was a meditation on contradictions that felt entirely of the moment. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons rejected category hierarchies between the precious and the practical, high and low, pristine and well-worn, proposing a wardrobe built for the complexity of women’s lives.
And beneath the runway theatrics there was a concession given to the politically charged moment. As the duo acknowledged the privilege of their clientele they embraced the paradox rather than seeking to fully resolve them. In doing so Prada once again proved that their greatest power lies not in offering answers, but in framing the questions fashion must navigate now.
